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Need some pointers on removing a broken seat bolt

17K views 16 replies 11 participants last post by  ZEN357  
#1 ·
Yup, another case of the cheap seat bolts shearing off at or near the head, about an 1/8th of an inch away from the head in my case. Worst part is, the other one seems to be equally seized. I left it alone after breaking one..

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Flash washed it out a little bit, but it sheared off right where the bolt is even with the body. Has anyone ever managed to remove one of these with an easy out bit, or is it something that absolutely has to be drilled out? I wouldn't mind paying a shop to do whatever they would have to do to remove it without drilling it. I'm OCD about stuff like that. I sold my first 4V/Teksid engine due to a tiny crack at one of the bellhousing threads.
 
#3 ·
Link please? I'd really, really like to avoid drilling, but if all 4 of the 4 rear ones are going to snap between both fron, may as well just drill them.. Fortunately the fronts are nuts which were pretty lose on mine. Next to no effort in loosening those.
 
#5 ·
I'm gonna spray it with PB Blaster twice a day everyday for the next two weeks. I bet the other ones will snap though, leading to the same thing.

**** it though. If they have to be drilled out, so be it. It's not like a drill bit has never been taken to the body of my car. I have 4 bolt MM caster camber plates. :)
 
#8 ·
I'm glad you chimed in WickedSnake, just to ask about your sig.

Does "May God have mercy on the soul who's holding the key." mean that your car is basically a bastard of a car, giving whoever owns it tons of problems?
 
#11 ·
If the seat bolt is one that goes through the floor and sticks out the bottom, if there is bolt still sticking out the bottom side, you can weld another bolt onto the end of it and use that bolt head to turn the bolt out through the bottom. Did it on my Jeep when I pulled the seats out. Just an idea.
 
#12 ·
Out of all the bolts of the front two seats, I only had one snap. I ended up just drilling it out. But I would try hammering the hell out of it on the head (from the bottom.. so I guess that would be the opposite end of the original head..), after soaking it in WD40 Then use a vice grip to try to get it to twist out. Good luck!
 
#13 ·
Same thing happened to my car. Get a tap for the size of the stock seat bolt, drill out to the size required for the tap and the slowly tap out the remainder of the bolt and re use the original threads. Thats what I did and it worked perfectly.
 
#14 ·
I had the best results drilling out bolts using a left hand drill bit, it usually loosens the bolt as it drills and then they screw out with the drill before you have to drill all the way through.

You can get left hand drill bits from McMaster-Carr .

I'd grind the stub flat on top then center punch it and make a starter hole with a small bit then hit it with the bigger left hand bit.

Man I'm glad I don't live in the rust belt anymore, I used to fight these kind of problems all the time but now that I'm in Kali every bolt on my car looks brand new.
 
#15 ·
But mine don't seem to have snapped

I seem to have the same problem: The two rear bolts on my front seat won't come out.

They were very hard to turn initially, but then loosened up to some extent. But they just continued to turn forever, albeit with a little bit of resistance. There was no sudden snapping; the heads of the bolts are still on; and the backs of the seat tracks are still tightly secured by them.

There are no bolts visible underneath the car. So now I'm at a loss as to what to do...
 

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#16 ·
I had this happen to me. It's so weird.

I had to center punch the bolt but the head would spin when I drilled. I put a wrench on it and held it there by putting my foot on the wrench then drilled it out. Replaced it with stainless steel bolts washers and nuts from home depot.

To resecure the seat Had a friend hold the top down from spinning with a wrench while I went under and threw a washer, lock washer, and nut on. Wasn't fun.