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Question on PCV valve, blow by, and catch cans...

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10K views 17 replies 7 participants last post by  TheOdessa  
#1 ·
Hey guys,
Trying to track down something I've noticed recently which is excessive white smoke out of the exhaust. While it doesn't smell sweet and I don't see the coolant levels dropped, I was chasing other possibilities. I went to change my PCV valve, which I am assuming the previous owner didn't change, and I saw excessive amounts of oil on the connector neck for the tube that goes into the upper plenum. The tube was also filled with oil as well. From what I've read, this can indicate excessive blow by and a bad PCV correct? The old valve rattled. So my question is, is this normal? Was my PCV valve? Should I get an oil catch can? And what would cause the excessive oil? The below picture sucks, but the connector to the tube is drenched in oil while the part that goes into the valve covers was clean and free of oil...

As far as catch cans go, where is a good place to get a decently priced one?
Image
 
#2 ·
pcv valve is a check valve. it rattles when it is new. its primary job is to make sure that the crank case cant be pressurised. as for the oil going up the tube, it is common. its in your intake and it will draw in oil vapers.
 
#4 ·
blow-by is when your pistons loose compression by allowing fuel and air slip pass the rings. one of the side effects is white smoke poofing from your oil cap. kind of looks like a steam train, and when you rev it the smoke gets denser.
 
#5 ·
Interesting. What I am battling right now is excessive white smoke from my tailpipe, mostly noticed after idling for a minute then taking off. Drive thru's and long red lights are noted mostly. If I idle for a bit then take off, white smoke comes out the rear end. It isn't just a little either. Sometimes it can be embarrassing. The smoke does not smell sweet, so I am not sure what is going on.
 
#6 ·
It could be a few things. Since im not there to see it its hard to be exact. You could be getting oil leaking past your valve guide seals. It could be a crack in your intake manifold, bad intake manifold gasket. It could be condensation from the out side temps dropping
 
#7 ·
Intake manifold and gasket are pretty new. Installed the FRPP intake and felpro gasket with high temp copper sealant around the intake ports. I ruled out condensation due to happening even after an hour of driving.

How would I test for leaking valve guide seals?
 
#13 ·
This thread is three years old. I just checked. TheOdessa appears to be still around but he hasn't posted anything for around three months.

It is really common for white smoke to come out of tail pipes this time of year from condensation. I've had it so bad on my cars that water dripped from the tail pipes. Did your problem just start after the weather turned colder? Does it go away after the tail pipes have gotten hot and have dried out?
 
#18 ·
I am still around!! :) I've just been going through some life changes that really has be away from my car for a bit. Separation, no longer in a house, ect. I still have the stang though, I just don't work on it like I used to.

I found out my issue to be valve stem seals going bad. I had the car checked out and this was the issue. Catch can didn't solve the issue, but it doesn't catch a ton of blow by. Honestly I fixed the issue by using a bottle of ATP AT-205 in my oil for the last 2 oil changes. I also run Mobil 1 High Mileage Full Syn 5w-30.

[ame]http://www.amazon.com/ATP-AT-205-Re-Seal-Stops-Bottle/dp/B000NVW1LM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419816554&sr=8-1&keywords=atp+205[/ame]

I used that same stuff in my HF hydraulic floor jack and it cured the leak problem in that as well going on well over a year. I can't recommend the stuff enough!

 
#15 ·
Check your oil level if you haven't. I performed an oil change on my 2000 GT not too long ago and was shocked to see that I only had 2.5 - 3 quarts of oil in the crankcase and filter. I checked my compression and it was great. I am still hunting for a suspect to the oil consumption and replaced my PCV valve in the meantime. My entire PCV system routing will be changed though because I have just installed a supercharger. My car was smoking due to the cold weather before it went in storage but like Eagle2000GT and Crimson said, I feel it was the weather and the full exhaust setup I have. I am banking on valve guide seals in my case.
 
#16 ·
You need to check your oil more often to make sure it is full-- one quart more than recommended. Add oil when needed. Unless your car is putting out blue smoke I wouldn't worry about it. I'm oil school. I remember when motors that used a quart every 1000 miles were good. Harley-Davidson still uses that standard.

There are a lot of 2000 GTs in this thread. In case you haven't heard our owners manuals say to run 5 quarts of conventional 5w30. Our crankcase and oil pans are exactly the same as the Romeo motors but Ford later recommend 6 quarts of blended 5w20. The only thing that Ford changed was the marks on the dipstick. There were a couple of reasons for the change. First, there were instances of prolonged high rpm oil starvation. At least on member reported that it happened to his motor when it was a quart low. That is why we should ignore the owners manual and run 6 quarts instead of 5. The second is that 5w20 get slightly better gas mileage than 5w30. Ford need to increase its fleet gas mileage to avoid serious fines. 5w20 if fine if you drive normally but its slightly on the thin side during aggressive driving when the oil gets hot. That is why I have always run 6 quarts of full-synthetic 0w30 or 5w30 oil in my car.

People have checked and our oil pans are capable of holding 8 quarts of oil without interfering with the crank. That is why several members run 7 quarts in their cars.

It is not unexpected for a motor to use a little oil. Oil vapor goes out the PCV and you will always lose a little oil around the rings and seals. When you drain the oil out of the car a lot stays in the oil filter. At 180,000 miles my motor is still tight. It will use a quart around every 2500 miles but that is nothing to worry about. I read an article once that suggested if your car is using a quart every 2000-3000 then you should move up to a heaver grade oil such as going from 5w20 to 5w30. I'm not completely sold on this but tolerances do get larger with wear and larger tolerances need a heavier oil. I have recently switched to full-synthetic 0w40 European blend because larger tolerances need a heavier oil and because it has a higher concentration of ZDDP. It has the same level of ZDDP that was in the oil when our cars were manufactured.
 
#17 · (Edited)
I have smoke coming out the tail pipes all winter. I'll look at other cars and they'll have no smoke coming out the exhaust. Get condensation dripping from the pipes too. I run 7qts of oil. Last time I changed the oil I got back 6.25qts after 8 months/3,000 miles, but I also have a slight rear main seal leak and a vented catch can that mists sometimes. My pcv is stock with 67,000 miles on it and compression is very strong. I'm fairly confident in saying that my motor burns less than .25qt between oil changes.