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Question regarding Tubular K and Front Control Arms Setup

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6.6K views 12 replies 8 participants last post by  ndfrspd  
#1 ·
Last year, I installed a Tubular K member from Sleek Sleds and tubular control arms from QA1 and I noticed that the control arms compared to stock were noticeably shorter. Example, the wheels when bolted back up were closer to the engine, like a very narrower stance up front. And because of this, when i would make complete turns, the inside edge of my rims would grind against my front sway bar. So i thought a quick fix would be to push the wheels back out using 1.5" wheel adapters. Well, it did work for a short time, until recently i had snow tires put on my car on all 4 tires and the mechanics did notice a worn driver side ball joint in the QA1 control arm. I am not too worried about replacing the ball joint asap, but I guess what I am asking.... is this a common problem when installing tubular setups? Should I sell my rims and find ones with a different offset? Thank you.

and actually i made this thread here a while back and to answer this guys reply, yes i did measure after installation and the control arms are shorter in length. http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forum...s/99-04/298371-question-combining-drop-spindles-upr-front-end-coilover-kit.html

setup: UPR coilovers, MM C/C plates, Steeda Bumpsteer Tie Rod kit, Moog Inner tie rods, QA1 control arms with OE Ball Joints, SleekSleds Tubular K, 18" rims, 245/40/18 tires
 
#3 ·
On the ball joint did you install the spacers on the ball joint, if not that will tear up more than ball joints. Also check your ball joints they maybe welded in on the qa1. I bought a used qa1 kmember with a arms and ball joints were welded in.
 
#9 ·
Dang i will have to check my receipt on summitracing... i could have sworn i bought 96-98 tubular c arms.... ill post back when i check the invoice. Thank you for the input.

EDIT: I just found my archived receipt of purchase, man i must have been really anxious to get these parts... i scrolled down on this page: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hal-mu1esa/overview/

and low and behold, it states "Notes: Designed to fit 5.0L applications only. Requires the use of QA1 coil-over struts and caster/camber plates."

Looks like ill be doing a control arm swap come spring time!
One more question....

Now in terms of the wheel in the wheel well being pushed more towards the back than centered in the wheel well... is that because of the tubular k that i have? The only way those wheels can be re-centered in the wheel well is by moving the control arm mounting points forward about an inch or 3/4"... which has to be the design of the k-member itself... right?? Like i said, i found the K member from SleekSleds in Florida, and it was never specified what year exactly this was made for. I do have a pictures of the build here:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-...4E/UNDaL_VRvkI/AAAAAAAABAM/UA_Ji5d_05k/w958-h539-no/2012-08-25_15-12-27_343.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-...pg/UNDaMQyPsvI/AAAAAAAABAQ/jUSEQ2ZwzRg/w365-h648-no/2012-08-25_15-12-51_828.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-...po/UNDaKE5i35I/AAAAAAAAA_4/GDYgHAcBlvQ/w365-h648-no/2012-08-25_15-12-20_429.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-...xA/UNDaPrSlOGI/AAAAAAAABA4/DhmAMsU9sZo/w958-h539-no/2012-09-06_14-43-28_165.jpg

Can anyone see if this is the wrong tubular k by chance??
 
#10 ·
Looks like an exact copy of a UPR K member. The only difference in K's from 79-04 is motor mounts, yours has the modular mounts so it's right. You have to expect slight differences in the parts which may explain why your wheels are shifted rearwards.

On another note..... I have the same A arms that you have, only they are for New Edge cars..... I'm in need of Fox arms to tuck my front tires inside the fenders. I'd be willing to work out a straight trade with you if you're interested. If we each pay shipping we'll get what we want on the cheap.

Edit: I noticed that you are still running a front sway bar... I cut the sway bar mounts from my A arms so you may not be interested.