Without the call tag/catch-word and a 4 bangers doortag i couldnt tell you. Thats basically a part number. Looking at some pics on ebay the coils dont look any thinner or less in number than the 5.0, but i tossed my old springs long ago so i could be wrong. I dont think the coils themselves were stamped as my old 5.0 springs werent, that much i do remember. All i can tell you is the 4 bangers were softer. The only springs i have on hand are B springs. And the springs on it now are Mach 1.

 

OK. I figured as much. I've looked around online for stamping marks on either springs with no luck. I'll just take the guys word for it and hope for the best.

---------- Post added at 01:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:23 PM ----------

The guy I'm buying them from said he pulled them from his 4 banger along with the K member and drive train. Said he'll show me the car and VIN. I suppose that's enough evidence to say they're most likely 4 banger springs.

 

The coils are thinner on the 4 cylinder springs. Tell the dude to measure the thickness, and I can measure my v8 springs I have pulled out. If his thickness is different then you should be good. 4cylinder and V8 springs side by side.




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I'll do that.

---------- Post added at 09:16 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:28 PM ----------

Will the factory V8 struts work OK with 4 cylinder springs or should I get some different ones? With different springs rates the front suspension will act differently and I'm wondering what effect that will have on my factory struts?

 

Yes, it will act differently. Some guys (mostly guys who say they drag race alot) like the 4 cylinder springs. The first setup I had with my car after the V8 swap was 4 cylinder springs with Monroe V8 struts. I did not like at all. I swapped to V8 springs in rear, helped some, but still didn't like it. I then swapped from 4 cylinder to V8 springs with a coil cut out and no isos in front with same Monroe strut and it was much better.

To be honest, if my control arms didn't have just beat up bushings on them I may have kept the v8 springs and maybe just went with a better strut/shock combo and been done.

All of this depends on purpose of vehicle though.

 

I want to race it on weekends for fun, that's pretty much it. For now at least. The guy i'm buying the springs from has the 4clyinder struts too. Didn't ask how much he want's for them, but if they're cheap, should I get them?

 

Narley, the guy said that the springs are "almost half an inch". I asked if that meant 7/16 and he said yes, so that's all I have to go on. Let me know what your's measure as soon as you can! I appreciate it.

 

V8 spring thickness measures .656" with a dial caliper. That is a little over 5/8".

Another measurement is the distance between one coil to the next. If you measure the coils in the middle it is about 1" to 1-1/16" for V8's. I think the 4 cylinders have more gap.


So if your guy says the thickness is "somewhere under half inch" then it sounds like they are 4 cylinder springs.


My buddy who has built alot of foxes that were 50/50 drag/street and pretty fast for not alot of money, likes 4 cylinder springs. He'd even run without roll bars up front. He really likes 4 cylinder springs with either Lakewood or Strange adjustable struts.

If you end up not liking the 4cyl springs i've got some V8s that have the right amount of coil cut to give a good looking stance (look at my signature pic). Also, there is a very used, but cheap MM coilover kit on Ebay right now.

 

Cool thanks! I'll go ahead and make the trip today to get the springs.

 

Just got back with the springs in my possession. The guy gave me the 4 banger struts too. Payed $30 for all of it. One of the springs has a 3rd of the top coil broken off though. I'm hoping I can just cut a 3rd of the top coil off the other spring and run them.

 

I think you can be ok. I ran the 4cylinders with no isos, so worst case is use isos.

 

isos = isolaters?

 

isos = isolators.

They are good for atleast 1/2" or so.

 

Ah I see. Cool. Thanks. I just looked at them more closely now that I've had some free time and it looks like there's half a coil gone off one of them, so I'll cut half off the other and run isolaters

---------- Post added at 08:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:04 PM ----------

Would there be any benefit for me to put the 4cylinder struts in verses leaving the V8 ones in the car? For weight transfer that is.

 

i doubt isolators are going to make up for 1/2"

 

The isolators could get you close to half inch maybe, if the factory ones didn't get it the running some aftermarket ones are thicker I believe.

On the strut question, I bet running 4cylinder struts with the v8 motor would be a decent amount of weight transfer. But that's my guess, never used that setup.


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It seems like the 4 cylinder struts might be too soft on the compression rate for a 5.0 equipped Mustang.In otherwords they might be ok for front end lift of the car(when you launch)but I think you might encounter the suspension dropping too hard once the front end settles back down and the struts compress.4 cylinder struts are designed to control the weight of a 4 cylinder vs a 8 cylinder.They're a little more expensive,but adjustable struts would be the way to go on your setup.4 cylinder springs do work great for drag racing and the front end will also get lowered about 1/2-3/4" due to the additional weight of the v8 engine.The rear won't get lowered at all from the 4 cylinder springs unless the rear springs are the ones you said had a half coil cut out of them.If the car is gonna be stricly for drag racing only,the installation of 90/10 70/30 front and 50/50 rear Lakewood struts and shocks would work well,but I wouldn't use them on a daily driver/weekend racer Mustang because they're not meant for street duty or corner carving.You want the rear shock to compress(car squats down)as much as possible,the front strut to easily rebound(extend)during launch,but when the front end drops back down you wanna have quite a bit of compression (strut will be stiffer and have more resistance to it so the front of the vehicle doesn't slam down hard on the pavement)If you've ever driven a classic car on the interstate with worn out shocks,that's the same type of feeling the front end of your car will have when the front end comes back down after launching,if you run a strut with too soft of a compression setting.You want the strut to be somewhat stiff so the tires will be on the surface of the road just enough to maintain control.If the compression setting is too soft,the whole weight of the front end and motor basically digs into the pavement(figure of speech)and that's extra resistance that slows the car down.Just like if you run wide tires on the front vs skinny ones.The skinny tires creates less resistance and that equals faster et's.You might experiment with running the stock 4 cylinder shocks on the rear just to see how much squat they allow until you buy better shocks.If you run the 4 cylinder struts on the front and the car is a daily driver,I'm pretty sure the car is gonna ride fairly rough since theyre not designed to handle that extra engine weight.Curves might be a little scary tone trick that will help you with launching is to remove the front swaybar or at least remove the swaybar endlinks while racing.Reinstall them before getting on the street though because the car will lean badly around curves without the swaybar.You can also buy a adjustable pinion snubber to mount between the differential case and underbody.The factory one is tall and won't allow the rearend to squat as much so you can get a couple more inches of space if you swap the snubber out.

 

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That makes sense. Thanks for the info. I'll stick with the V8 struts for now