When re-installing my distributor I oriented it so that when the rotor is pointing at the #1 terminal the short tooth on the magnetic wheel is lined up with the hall effect sensor. Is this the correct orientation? The timing is fine otherwise, but I don't really have any way to know of the injectors are opening at the right time.
dirty_d
How I did mine was. I lined my balancer up with zero on the timing pointer and droped in the distributor pointing at number one cylinder. Now if it doesn't run right then your 180 degrees off. To make sure your not 180 off. Pull the spark plug on number 1. Turn your crank until you feel air being pushed out of the spark plug hole. Rotate the crank a little more on till you are on zero. Then drop distributor in pointing at number one cylinder. Then start her up and set the timing.
I have the spark timing correct, no problem there. I just don't know if the injector timing is correct. The ECU detects #1 base timing BTDC by a shorter pulse out of the PIP pin on the distributor so it can calculate when to open the injectors on the intake strokes of the correct cylinders. You can install the distributor in a bunch of different ways and still get the correct spark timing, but have the injectors open on the compression stroke etc. It will still run too.
If the rotor is pointing to cylinder #1 at TDC does that guarantee the correct PIP timing?
If the rotor is pointing to cylinder #1 at TDC does that guarantee the correct PIP timing?
This is all news to me also. When I installed my MSD distributor I just marked on my stock lower distributor cap where the rotor was facing, I then took the lower cap off and mounted it to my new MSD distributor. I took my stock distributor out and stabbed my new MSD in and lined the mark on the lower cap with the rotor, tightened the hold down bolt and swapped on the MSD upper and lower cap. Car started up on the first try with no problems at all.
Yea the thing is if it is wrong you probably won't even be able to tell. The engine would just make less horsepower than it potentially could and get worse MPG because the fuel wouldn't be properly atomized. The fuel would pool up because the air in the runner isn't moving, then that pool would need to get sucked into the cylinder when the intake valve opens.
From what I've read the rising edge of the PIP pulses are what tell the ECU when each piston is at 10deg BTDC(or whatever your base timing is) on the compression stroke. The #1 cylinder has a shorter pulse than the rest so it can be identified. The teeth on that rotor block the magnetic field from getting to the sensor, so i think I might have it wrong, I need the beginning of the empty space before the short tooth to line up with the sensor when the spark rotor lines up with plug #1.
From what I've read the rising edge of the PIP pulses are what tell the ECU when each piston is at 10deg BTDC(or whatever your base timing is) on the compression stroke. The #1 cylinder has a shorter pulse than the rest so it can be identified. The teeth on that rotor block the magnetic field from getting to the sensor, so i think I might have it wrong, I need the beginning of the empty space before the short tooth to line up with the sensor when the spark rotor lines up with plug #1.
5.0's fire 4 injectors at a time, all passenger side, and all drivers side. It is not sequential.
when #1 is at TDC the latches that hold the distrubitor cap should be horizontal left and right and number 1 will be left of rear. and the dizzy will be pointing at #1 and the thin prong in the magnetic pick up.the tfi should be at nearly a 45* angle to the right as well. that is the starting point. fireing order for 302HO/351 is 13726548
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