To me auto is the only way to go with a high hp turbo set-up. I went with a Lentech Strip Terminator 4R70W, lock-up, transbrake, auto valve body but can be shifted manual, and it does not hesitate on the shifts, with Circle D triple disk 3500 stall. I am very happy with it so far, and should be in the mid 600 hp when dynoed in March. I have never heard anybody say anything negative about Fred Brown performance but the price was too much for me to swallow.

 

Thank you for the info! How much would this setup cost me to swap in? Just curious. I was looking on the Lentech site last night but wasn't sure what was included and what I needed to order extra.

---------- Post added at 10:50 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:49 AM ----------

UPDATE:

This car with be a 99% Street Car - I want it built for a street setup. I want it to be fast off the line and in a street race though.

 

I think it 100% depends on your goal. If you want to get as low as possible in the 1/4 mile then automatic all the way. Built 4r70w with trans brake and full manual valve body. Talk to someone and get a custom stall for your application. Don't cheap out on that part.

Now if it's a street strip car and you are more focused on fun and don't care if your a bit slower then I say go build 5 speed or 6 speed. A built t56 wouldn't be a bad choice.


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I just swapped to an auto. I can't put words to the difference the feel in power is. I have about 4k in parts and labor and that's is using a stock 4r70w. That is on the very high side. Your best bet if yougo auto is to find someone who is swapping to 5sp and buy everything off them. The auto will be the quickest set up on the street or at the track.

 

An auto swap will require a new CPU.

That being said. Go auto with the turbo, I think you'll be happier. I still run the 5 speed but can see where the auto would a better choice.

BOSSMAN sounds like a he has a sic set up and SSGpate has a full manual VB set up that he says he loves. You could pick their brains on some ideas for a good auto in your set up. :yes

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$3800 w/out converter. :shitbrick

 

Auto FTW! It was by far one the best mods I did to my car. You dont have to use a 4r. I have a built th400 with TB and high stall in my car and it was cheaper than the built 4r. I am really happy with it and I have beat the sh*t out of it with zero problems. As far as street driving thats mostly all my car sees and with only a 3 speed its not that bad even on the highway.

 

If you do decide to go 4r70w send me a pm. I have one that I could let go for a good price with shipping included.


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$2600 wont get you an OD automatic transmission.
You do not have to change computers if you get a manual valve body.

Since your 99% street car just put the new clutch in and save the money.
I beat the **** out of my 3650 for a year and wore out a spec 3 clutch before swapping to an automatic. My car was making 600rwhp at the time.
Make sure you break the clutch in correctly!

 

Thank you all for the awesome postings! I have a lot of questions answered here.

** Y2K what is your opinion on breaking in the clutch? I am going to be breaking in the clutch and engine at the same time. Any tips?

Maybe I will just run this trans until it breaks then. You make a good point and if your 3650 held up like that I am impressed. I only need a year out of this one. This will give me more time to plan.

---------- Post added at 10:58 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:56 AM ----------

If you aren't going to track it or race from digs in mexico frequently leave a 5spd in it. 600whp+ isn't going to be fast from a stop *on the street* even with an auto unless you're running very sticky DR's/Slicks. That being said, get a WOT box/2-step and 15" slicks and you should be able to get fairly good launches out of the tr3650.

An auto would be much more ideal, but imo it's not worth the swap headache for a 99% street car.

Good info, thank you! I have 17" rims. I may just go with these Mickey Thompson Et Street Radial II Tire 315 35 17 blackwall 3744R Set of 2 | eBay

I will look into the s-step. I don't know much about them. I have heard of them.


EDIT: This thing sounds badass. I think I am going 5 speed with this. Thanks. http://www.npcompleteperformance.com/wotbox

 

Built auto hands down.

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If you aren't going to track it or race from digs in mexico frequently leave a 5spd in it. 600whp+ isn't going to be fast from a stop *on the street* even with an auto unless you're running very sticky DR's/Slicks. That being said, get a WOT box/2-step and 15" slicks and you should be able to get fairly good launches out of the tr3650.

An auto would be much more ideal, but imo it's not worth the swap headache for a 99% street car.

 

Call Proformance if you decide to go auto. They are out of Elburn, IL. Proformance Racing Transmissions They can set you up with a built 4r70w with a manual valve body in a reverse or forward pattern so you can shift it like a stick.

If it is 99% street driven and you like shifting then maybe stay with the stick.

 

I had a built & blown street car with a built & stalled 4r70w. Whatever your stall is rated at..... that's roughly the lowest RPM you'll ever be able to cruise at. I found it rather annoying running at 3,000 RPM minimum while leisurely cruising. Also it was annoying when you give the car part throttle at low speeds and the RPMs shoot up to 3000 and the car barely moves .... feels the same as a trans slipping. A high stall is great for racing, but shitty for street driving or cruising. JMO.

 

I don't know about your set-up / stall but mine is nothing of the sort. With a 3500 stall, I can take off, part throttle, or cruise at 1200 RPM? Stall Rpm is the flash point the stall will go to at WOT. It doesn't change cruise or normal take-off. Cruising and part throttle is no different than factory, at least with a lock-up convertor, like the factory lock-up.

 

^That is not how my car acts.