Here is a real nice FAQ for those who are a little "less versed" in modding your 6er. It gives you a general chronological order of where to start on modding your V6. I think it will be helpful for everyone looking for a "jump off point" to modding their stangs.
Here are some common questions about the V6 Mustang and performance options for it.
Q- I just got my v6 mustang and it's completely stock, what should my first mods be?
A- The most common and easiest to install mods are underdrive pulley and coldair intakes. Those are quick afternoon jobs. You can expect 7 or more rwhp from each of these items.
After that you'll want to look into a dual exhaust system. This can be done using a pacesetter adapter and a stock GT catback (or aftermarket) or have an exhaust shop custom make you one. Make sure they use true mandrel bends, not crush bends! What size exhaust? Stick with 2.25" to 2.5" tubing. The 2.5" tubing is great and all you'll ever need for future upgrades like heads and cam or a supercharger.
Next up would be rearend gears and a traction-lok unit (also called limited slip differential to make both wheels turn instead of just the right rear). This can be expensive because of the cost of install but is well worth the investment. Manual cars will really like a 3.73 gear and autos a 4.10 or 3.73 (depending on the number of highway miles you may want to go with a 3.73).
Once you've taken care of some of the simple engine boltons, the exhaust and the gears it's time to look at the suspension. A set of lowering springs, a rear swaybar and subframe connectors will round out your suspension and make it much more exciting and fun to drive.
Now that you've rounded out the boltons you could consider getting a custom SCT chip. If you have an automatic your shift points can be changed and the shifts can be firmer. If you've changed gears your speedometer can be corrected (on 99-04). Rev limiters can be raised, speed limiters removed and if you're running premium grade gasoline timing can be adjusted for better performance.
That's it for the quick ones! After that you start digging in deeper.
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Q- Alright, what's next when you say diggin in deeper?
A- For your exhaust system you can upgrade to short tube or longtube headers. Free flow cat H-pipe or offroad (non cat) h-pipe for track use only.
For your suspension there are panhard bars to keep the rear axle in line with the chassis so it's not all over the place. Coilover conversion kits, caster/camber plates and plenty more!
Now onto the fun stuff... engine parts! You can swap out your stock camshaft for a longer duration one, there are ported intake manifolds, bigger and/or halfshafted throttle bodies, ported cylinder heads, big valve cylinder heads, forged pistons, connecting rods, crankshafts and more! Then of course there's always the supercharger...
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Q- Ok, so is it worth my time swapping out my stock camshaft for a new one if I do nothing else?
A- For a 99-04 v6 definitely. You can gain over 15rwhp from cam swap alone, and plenty of torque too!
For 89-98 you might be better off spending money in a different area until you were ready to swap heads out too. The big gains on the 99-04 come from the large increase in duration over stock (178 stock to say 207 new) and how well the stock heads flow. 89-98 3.8s have about a 184* duration and swapping to a 207* wouldn't net you much. And if you went to a 216* camshaft you'd end up overcamming the motor and lose some torque down low which is not what you need!
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Q- Should I get short tube or longtube headers?
A- In most cases the stock headers are good to about 300hp. They are a restriction, but not a significant one. If you plan on an all out naturally aspirated motor the long tube headers would be the way to go, or if you plan on supercharging. If your area is very strict on emissions inspection and you can't run longtube headers then you would want the short tube headers.
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Q- I'm looking at getting ported heads, are the RPM Big Valve heads too much for me?
A- In most instances ported heads with stock valves, a matched camshaft and a good intake and exhaust system you'll make plenty of power.
For those of you out there that must have all the power you can get you might want to consider the Big Valve (BV) heads. These heads work great on 3.8s, but keep in mind that they breathe very well and will need an exhaust system and intake to match. For 4.2L motors the BV heads are great since the extra displacement is actually allowed to breathe more air through the heads than it would with lesser flowing ported heads.
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Q: What is a core charge?
A: A core charge is a monetary incentive for you, the purchaser, to return your stock parts after you've installed RPM's ported parts. When you purchase a package for X dollars with Y core charge you pay X and Y upon purchasing. When you send your stock parts back you get Y dollars back.
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Q: What's the difference between 'porting' and 'polishing'? What does 'Port & Polish' mean?
A: Porting is the deliberate removal of material in a cylinder head or intake manifold to achieve improved airflow by controlling the path the air will follow. Polishing is sort of a misnomer and not accurate. The average consumer assumes polished means a high lustre finish like you would see on a polished ceramic coated header where most companies that offer "port and polished" heads or intakes really mean they have smoothed out the rough spots. RPM avoids the term polish for this reason. You can assume that all of RPM's "ported" products have been "polished" to the extent that they are quite smooth.
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Q: What is a 'Complete' head?
A: Complete means ready to bolt on. It includes valves, springs, new guides and seals, a valve job are resurfaced and assembled.
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Q: Do you sell ported heads/intakes for [Thunderbirds, Cougars, 4.2 F150s, Taurus, Sable, SuperCoupes]?
A: Yes. RPM sells ported heads and intakes for the 4.2 f150 (refer to 99-04 3.8 'Splitport' pricing), and all 3.8 thunderbirds, cougars, taurii and sables (refer to 89-98 3.8 pricing). Ported SuperCoupe heads and intakes are available as well but you must send in your intakes with payment as no cores are on hand.
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Q: Can I put SuperCoupe heads on my Mustang?
A: Yes, they are a direct bolton for 94-95s. 96-98 3.8 heads have two fewer bolt holes so you can either omit those two bolts on the S/C heads when you reinstall your factory 96-98 lower intake or get a 94-95 lower intake and get the extra bolts. Also note that 96-98 use 6mm bolts and 82-95 use 8mm bolts.
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Q: Can I put 'SplitPort' (99-04 3.8, 97-04 4.2 heads) on my 94-98 Mustang?
A: Yes, with modifications. You will need the appropriate intake manifolds, throttle body, a new intake tube, egr tubing, coolant tubing thermostat housing, and a custom fuel rail as well as needing to cut and splice your fuel injector wiring harness. There are a few other important odds and ends but that's the general idea of it. Overwhelming isn't it to swap over the new setup just to get that 40hp more than you have now that the 99-04 v6s have from the factory? It's much simpler and VERY often more cost effective to just purchase a head/cam kit or even head, cam and intakes! But if you do still want to do the famed "split port swap" RPM can set you up with a custom fuel rail, wiring diagram for splicing.
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Q: Is a camshaft or head install something I can do myself?
A: Yes with the proper tools, time and patience. Also do not underestimate the value of a repair manual (Chilton's/Haynes). Without one of these you may miss critical steps and end up with a bigger problem than you anticipated. Here is a rough list of what needs to be done for a head/camshaft. It is by no means complete in every detail but can give you an idea of what you are in store for. It's recommended that you purchase a manual with the full details and torque specs for your vehicle before undergoing this procedure.:
Please refer to the installation instructions page for details/highlights on the swaps
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Q: How do I set lifter preload when I install a cam in my v6?
A: We'll start from the beginning... you've got the cam sprocket and crank sprockets lined up.
When you install the pushrods rotate the engine until each cylinder is at top dead center on its compression stroke and verify the lifters are on the base circle of the lobes for that cylinder
Install pushrods and rocker arms and finger tighten the bolt until the pushrod has no more loose up/down motion (this is zero lash).
Then turn the bolt 2/3 to 1-1/3 more turn to achieve 25ftlbs of torque (that's about 30 thousandths of lifter preload).
If you have to turn it more you need to add shims, if you turn it less you need longer pushrods (this won't be the case unless you try the stock pushrods first which I do recommend in case you don't need new pushrods. If you do not need new pushrods you can return them with your cam core for a refund).
Keep repeating the procedure until you get the proper torque value in the right number of turns.
Repeat for each cylinder.
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Q: How do I align my camshaft position sensor?
A: Put cylinder one (front most on passenger's side) at top dead center on compression stroke (both valves closed). With the cam sensor cap removed (the black plastic cap held on by two very small hex bolts) align the tooth in the center of the window and slip it into the timing cover with the window facing in the same direction it would be from the factory before you removed it (it's helpful to mark the base of the cam position sensor and the timing cover for proper alignment). When you insert it it will turn the tooth. Pull it out and adjust the tooth so when you put the CPS body in it turns the tooth to align exactly with the window. Adjust until it's lined up right in the center (using the CPS alignment tool is best and can make a huge difference between eyeballing it and getting it right) of the window then tighten the body down. Reinstall the plastic cap and put the car back together.
Here are some common questions about the V6 Mustang and performance options for it.
Q- I just got my v6 mustang and it's completely stock, what should my first mods be?
A- The most common and easiest to install mods are underdrive pulley and coldair intakes. Those are quick afternoon jobs. You can expect 7 or more rwhp from each of these items.
After that you'll want to look into a dual exhaust system. This can be done using a pacesetter adapter and a stock GT catback (or aftermarket) or have an exhaust shop custom make you one. Make sure they use true mandrel bends, not crush bends! What size exhaust? Stick with 2.25" to 2.5" tubing. The 2.5" tubing is great and all you'll ever need for future upgrades like heads and cam or a supercharger.
Next up would be rearend gears and a traction-lok unit (also called limited slip differential to make both wheels turn instead of just the right rear). This can be expensive because of the cost of install but is well worth the investment. Manual cars will really like a 3.73 gear and autos a 4.10 or 3.73 (depending on the number of highway miles you may want to go with a 3.73).
Once you've taken care of some of the simple engine boltons, the exhaust and the gears it's time to look at the suspension. A set of lowering springs, a rear swaybar and subframe connectors will round out your suspension and make it much more exciting and fun to drive.
Now that you've rounded out the boltons you could consider getting a custom SCT chip. If you have an automatic your shift points can be changed and the shifts can be firmer. If you've changed gears your speedometer can be corrected (on 99-04). Rev limiters can be raised, speed limiters removed and if you're running premium grade gasoline timing can be adjusted for better performance.
That's it for the quick ones! After that you start digging in deeper.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Q- Alright, what's next when you say diggin in deeper?
A- For your exhaust system you can upgrade to short tube or longtube headers. Free flow cat H-pipe or offroad (non cat) h-pipe for track use only.
For your suspension there are panhard bars to keep the rear axle in line with the chassis so it's not all over the place. Coilover conversion kits, caster/camber plates and plenty more!
Now onto the fun stuff... engine parts! You can swap out your stock camshaft for a longer duration one, there are ported intake manifolds, bigger and/or halfshafted throttle bodies, ported cylinder heads, big valve cylinder heads, forged pistons, connecting rods, crankshafts and more! Then of course there's always the supercharger...
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Q- Ok, so is it worth my time swapping out my stock camshaft for a new one if I do nothing else?
A- For a 99-04 v6 definitely. You can gain over 15rwhp from cam swap alone, and plenty of torque too!
For 89-98 you might be better off spending money in a different area until you were ready to swap heads out too. The big gains on the 99-04 come from the large increase in duration over stock (178 stock to say 207 new) and how well the stock heads flow. 89-98 3.8s have about a 184* duration and swapping to a 207* wouldn't net you much. And if you went to a 216* camshaft you'd end up overcamming the motor and lose some torque down low which is not what you need!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Q- Should I get short tube or longtube headers?
A- In most cases the stock headers are good to about 300hp. They are a restriction, but not a significant one. If you plan on an all out naturally aspirated motor the long tube headers would be the way to go, or if you plan on supercharging. If your area is very strict on emissions inspection and you can't run longtube headers then you would want the short tube headers.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Q- I'm looking at getting ported heads, are the RPM Big Valve heads too much for me?
A- In most instances ported heads with stock valves, a matched camshaft and a good intake and exhaust system you'll make plenty of power.
For those of you out there that must have all the power you can get you might want to consider the Big Valve (BV) heads. These heads work great on 3.8s, but keep in mind that they breathe very well and will need an exhaust system and intake to match. For 4.2L motors the BV heads are great since the extra displacement is actually allowed to breathe more air through the heads than it would with lesser flowing ported heads.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Q: What is a core charge?
A: A core charge is a monetary incentive for you, the purchaser, to return your stock parts after you've installed RPM's ported parts. When you purchase a package for X dollars with Y core charge you pay X and Y upon purchasing. When you send your stock parts back you get Y dollars back.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Q: What's the difference between 'porting' and 'polishing'? What does 'Port & Polish' mean?
A: Porting is the deliberate removal of material in a cylinder head or intake manifold to achieve improved airflow by controlling the path the air will follow. Polishing is sort of a misnomer and not accurate. The average consumer assumes polished means a high lustre finish like you would see on a polished ceramic coated header where most companies that offer "port and polished" heads or intakes really mean they have smoothed out the rough spots. RPM avoids the term polish for this reason. You can assume that all of RPM's "ported" products have been "polished" to the extent that they are quite smooth.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Q: What is a 'Complete' head?
A: Complete means ready to bolt on. It includes valves, springs, new guides and seals, a valve job are resurfaced and assembled.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Q: Do you sell ported heads/intakes for [Thunderbirds, Cougars, 4.2 F150s, Taurus, Sable, SuperCoupes]?
A: Yes. RPM sells ported heads and intakes for the 4.2 f150 (refer to 99-04 3.8 'Splitport' pricing), and all 3.8 thunderbirds, cougars, taurii and sables (refer to 89-98 3.8 pricing). Ported SuperCoupe heads and intakes are available as well but you must send in your intakes with payment as no cores are on hand.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Q: Can I put SuperCoupe heads on my Mustang?
A: Yes, they are a direct bolton for 94-95s. 96-98 3.8 heads have two fewer bolt holes so you can either omit those two bolts on the S/C heads when you reinstall your factory 96-98 lower intake or get a 94-95 lower intake and get the extra bolts. Also note that 96-98 use 6mm bolts and 82-95 use 8mm bolts.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Q: Can I put 'SplitPort' (99-04 3.8, 97-04 4.2 heads) on my 94-98 Mustang?
A: Yes, with modifications. You will need the appropriate intake manifolds, throttle body, a new intake tube, egr tubing, coolant tubing thermostat housing, and a custom fuel rail as well as needing to cut and splice your fuel injector wiring harness. There are a few other important odds and ends but that's the general idea of it. Overwhelming isn't it to swap over the new setup just to get that 40hp more than you have now that the 99-04 v6s have from the factory? It's much simpler and VERY often more cost effective to just purchase a head/cam kit or even head, cam and intakes! But if you do still want to do the famed "split port swap" RPM can set you up with a custom fuel rail, wiring diagram for splicing.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Q: Is a camshaft or head install something I can do myself?
A: Yes with the proper tools, time and patience. Also do not underestimate the value of a repair manual (Chilton's/Haynes). Without one of these you may miss critical steps and end up with a bigger problem than you anticipated. Here is a rough list of what needs to be done for a head/camshaft. It is by no means complete in every detail but can give you an idea of what you are in store for. It's recommended that you purchase a manual with the full details and torque specs for your vehicle before undergoing this procedure.:
Please refer to the installation instructions page for details/highlights on the swaps
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Q: How do I set lifter preload when I install a cam in my v6?
A: We'll start from the beginning... you've got the cam sprocket and crank sprockets lined up.
When you install the pushrods rotate the engine until each cylinder is at top dead center on its compression stroke and verify the lifters are on the base circle of the lobes for that cylinder
Install pushrods and rocker arms and finger tighten the bolt until the pushrod has no more loose up/down motion (this is zero lash).
Then turn the bolt 2/3 to 1-1/3 more turn to achieve 25ftlbs of torque (that's about 30 thousandths of lifter preload).
If you have to turn it more you need to add shims, if you turn it less you need longer pushrods (this won't be the case unless you try the stock pushrods first which I do recommend in case you don't need new pushrods. If you do not need new pushrods you can return them with your cam core for a refund).
Keep repeating the procedure until you get the proper torque value in the right number of turns.
Repeat for each cylinder.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Q: How do I align my camshaft position sensor?
A: Put cylinder one (front most on passenger's side) at top dead center on compression stroke (both valves closed). With the cam sensor cap removed (the black plastic cap held on by two very small hex bolts) align the tooth in the center of the window and slip it into the timing cover with the window facing in the same direction it would be from the factory before you removed it (it's helpful to mark the base of the cam position sensor and the timing cover for proper alignment). When you insert it it will turn the tooth. Pull it out and adjust the tooth so when you put the CPS body in it turns the tooth to align exactly with the window. Adjust until it's lined up right in the center (using the CPS alignment tool is best and can make a huge difference between eyeballing it and getting it right) of the window then tighten the body down. Reinstall the plastic cap and put the car back together.
