Well if it wants to start with carb cleaner and not on its own, Id deffinately say its a fuel issue. Could be your injectors, might have to get them cleaned (most places can do this). Im pretty sure its fuel related being that it started pinging (meaning probably loss of fuel) but just not sure what. Fuel preassure means the pump is working which is good.

 

I'm with fuel as well, injectors seem to be your last thing to check since you replaced the pump and filter. Lines may be clogged also... but start with injectors.

 

fuel injectors, bad gas, or clogged up lines imo

 

thanks for all the advice, and i think it has to do with fuel as well, however like i said we changed out the spark plugs and every time we turn over the engine the spark plugs get alot of fuel on them, and floods the engine if we try to much, i have even taken them all out and blown out the engine and put the plugs back in with no change. It still just turns over really fast but doesnt start, the only time i can get it to start for a couple sec is if i blow carb cleaner in the carborator. so WTF i know it is getting gas and even if it was the injectors it would still start just not stay running right

 

INERTIA FUEL CUTOFF!!

Here in bumpy Colorado this exact S*** happens all the *&%^&$& time... Your driving along and the engine starves out for fuel... It losses power, sputters, dies, might restart a little at first... You crank it and it tries to kick till the battery dies...

The fuel tank has a crash sensor switch that cuts gas flow in the case of an accident. It is a weight that trips the fuel pump's electrical supply in case of a jolt. But sometimes if you hit a bump, or the trigger just decides to trip while driving, the cutoff valve shuts off the fuel.

http://team-titanium.com/Mustang/FUpumpSwitch.jpg

ford INERTIA FUEL CUTOFF - Google Search

The SOB can fool even old Ford mechanics (guess how I know ) My dealer actually specifically pointed it out to me when I bought it... But it was a cold morning and getting to work was the priority... After towing, sitting at the dealer for two days, and $250 dollars later... I only had to push the white button to make it go again... The dealer took pity on me and changed the oil, washed it and filled it with gas

A few years latter it dropped dead in the driveway... In desparation I pushed the little button and it made a "click"... WTF!!! Car started right up....

This very well may not be it. But for what you describe, it is the #1 simple first thing to check. If it is indeed all it was, join the club buddy

I actually hope this is not it... It would just be so sad... :sorry

 

^ Is that on a 95 stang as well? Should i reset it just for the hell of it?

 

I don't think it's the inertia switch. He said when they try to start the car the plugs get fuel on them and if they try too much they flood the engine. If the inertia switch came unplugged there wouldn't be any fuel going to the engine and by now his fuel lines would be empty.

 

Probably not but it's easy enough to reset so might as well try.

Your symptoms don't really add up.. You say you have fuel on the plugs yet also spark and it isn't igniting?

You better go recheck and make sure you're getting spark and fuel, maybe in a different way than before.

 

+1 fuel on the plugs implies the injectors are working but it won't run.

You could try a noid light to see if you are getting injector pulse. It's a little
light that plugs into the injector connector and flashes each time the injector
pulse is present.

I'm guessing it will prove to be an electrical issue, possibly the PCM.

 

checked again

I know I am getting spark and fuel.

I checked the spark by holding spark plug by the engine block and gat a nice big spark also we pulled it out and held it right next to the plug and it sparked. just for the hell of it I also put all new spark plugs.

I know I am getting gas because i put new plugs in and tried to start it and went and checked again and the plugs where flooded. I also just for the hell of it replaced the fuel pump and filter. And for the record I did push that little white button and no change.

So it is getting spark and gas so WTF it just will not ignite

 

Only thing I can think of would be compression, but you already said you checked that.. did you just use a finger or an actual pressure guage?

 

I'd suspect the crankshaft position sensor. If that is sending a bad signal, the timing could be way off. That would result with a extreme loss of power, trouble or no start issues, pinging, and could possibly be intermittent, fooling the techs. I would expect it to throw a code, but sometimes it may not.

 

I was just thinking the same thing. But I think he mentioned he switched that out as well.

 

crank position sensor

yes sir already checked and bought a new one for it. So again I replaced the fuel filter fuel pump spark plugs crank shaft position sensor. Also I checked the compression with a guage not by finger same for fuel pressure guage red 205 for compression

 

yes sir already checked and bought a new one for it. So again I replaced the fuel filter fuel pump spark plugs crank shaft position sensor. Also I checked the compression with a guage not by finger same for fuel pressure guage red 205 for compression

maybe its the camshaft position sensor. I have seen cases where it might throw a Crankshaft sensor code when the camshaft sensor is acting up (the ecu knows one if off, but doesn't know which one)

 

If your getting a spark and have proper fuel pressure (it is important that the fuels does have significant pressure), it must be the injectors are not firing if the thing does not even try to sputter or kick over. Even if the firing were random it would kick or something instead of just turning with the starter with no sign of life at all.

I would check the error codes again just to see if anything has come up. Water in the gas is a possibility. Or major contamination. An Engine Control Computer failure is possible too if the injector transistor drivers have lost power (or their ground). Check the injector wiring for any damage, loose connectors and all that.

At that point I would go to a salvage yard and get an old injector off a scrapped engine (or a new one, but they are costly) and check to see if the injector clicks open at all (just like using an extra plug for checking the spark.) Of course you don't need the fuel hooked to it just to check the mechanical valve opening. If you could positively pin it down to the injectors staying closed that would help a lot. Unfortunately, if that is the case it might need a new ECM and a Ford dealer to fix.

I suppose too if the ECM lost all power it would all go dead too. But that should be pretty obvious and you would not be able to pull error codes unless something super screwed up were going on. I don't know if a simple "fuse" somewhere could knock out a car like this.

I wish it were here. I would tear into the SOB all night long to find it for you!! (I am a failure analysis electrical engineer by trade). But all I can do to help here is type...

I wonder if like a timing chain broke and the cam shaft is dead. But I think that is pretty odd on the V6 unless a bunch of gear teeth broke... Speculation is getting wild now...

I wish you the best of luck. But it might be a full blown Ford master mechanic thing...

Terry

 

I'd check the injectors. I have a full set of injectors I could send you if you pay shipping...

 

"I" will pay the shipping here if that is the only problems standing in the way of finding the answer to this interesting problem... : Just PM me an I will paypal it But if you don't use them all , send me three just to "study"

 

Armybillyboy let me know if you want to try the injectors and I'll give gandolf my PayPal info.

 

cam shaft position sensor would keep the car from starting?

 

It could. The injectors are supposed to inject just before the intake valve opens. I don't know if that timing is based off the crank, or cam shaft, or both. My brother in laws jeep wouldn't run because the cam shaft sensor was broken. He got crank codes, and replace it, but the issue came back and they replace the cam sensor and it was fine after that.

 

and yes will try the injectors, i am in the army so really dont make to much

 

$15 shipped and you can have them all and I'll send them priority.

 

ok it wasnt the crank shaft or cam shaft i replaced both any other ideahs

 

theft system

Ok so my theft light is flashing. Can the car start if it is locked out.

 

Ok so my theft light is flashing. Can the car start if it is locked out.

It sounds like a pats issue. If you use a non-pats key, it won't start. I've heard of the pats system malfunctioning, but its rare.

 

Usually dealerships will plug in and diagnose for $80. I don't know if you've tried that or not already. It almost sounds electrical the way it just shut down and wouldn't start back up. Though I have to say, giving a car more gas when it won't go is never a good idea. But from what happened, it sounds like it was already shutting down. That even makes me think a dead TPS. But I don't really know what the symptoms of those being bad are, and am really going out on a limb.
On another note, I have a problem starting my car sometimes where it just cranks and cranks even when I give it gas...until it finally catches.

 

On another note, I have a problem starting my car sometimes where it just cranks and cranks even when I give it gas...until it finally catches.

on obd2 cars if you floor it while trying to start the car.. it tells the ecm to cut the fuel out. so don't do that, unless you're clearing the engine.

 

security

so my theft light flashes and i am wondering if maybe my security system is messed up? any thoughts

 

Ok so my theft light is flashing. Can the car start if it is locked out.

The engine should not be able to crank if the PATs is stopping it. The theft system disables the starter and apparently tells the ECM to disable the fuel pump too.

http://team-titanium.com/Mustang/start.jpg

It is normal for the theft light to flash without the key in the ignition. With the ignition on, it think the light is on solid along with the other lights? In run they should all go out. I can't remember that for sure this moment though.

 

fixed

Ok So I Finally Broke Down And Took It To The Ford Dealer, And It Took Them Three Days But They Figured It Out. The Gas Was Bad, For What Ever Reason The Gas That Was Put In Was Bad. I Really Dont Know How It Happened. All I Know Is Now I Have A 700 Dollar Bill From The Ford Dealer I Cant Pay. Being A Soldier In The Military Sucks, Never Have Money For ****. Specially Things You Really Need Like This

 

damn dude that sux ! best luck to you man thanks for serving:usa