Sure you can do that. Up to you. Some run it like that.

 

i would still use a power pipe, a filter that is small enough to fit infront of the radiator would be pretty small and probably be restrictive. a power pipe allows you to run a long high flow filter and still keep intake temps down.

http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/99-04/215100-parts-list-make-your-own-power-pipe.html

 

or I could just run a 90 coupler and put a long cone.. I may try the power pipe, I just don't have much room in my fender, my filter touched my IC piping, and its soo low it gets very dirty.. how low does the homemade one leave your filter, i know I could make it any length but what do most do

 

I did this on the dyno. I used my stock Vortech intake, it made 379/380. Then I unbolted that, and put a Spectre filter straight off the blower, and it made 378.6/380. Thats with the hood open. At the track, or on the road, when its alittle warmer, youll be drawing in hotter air. IAT's will be warmer, hotter air doesnt compress as well, so youll end up losing power most likley.

Best bet is make a custom power pipe like stal said, that goes into the fenderwell and draws in cooler air from outside the engine bay

 

The vortech air intake isnt THAT bad honestly. Now the pro charger setups that I have seen are all contained under the hood and that is garbage. At least the vortech is a cold air setup. On a low boost app (under 9lbs) your not going to see any gains really. Get it up over 12lbs or so and a power pipe will start to shine more.

 

well im on a 3.3, so I probably have 12-14 before the intercooler.. i get 10 on my boost gauge

 

thats pretty good for a cx racing. I make 10 with a 3.6 and aftercooler setup. I'm going to a 3.24. Should make 14lbs +

 

Steve, what size intercooler? 4 core or 3 core? Si trim flows good, 3.33 on a CX intercooler and 10psi is good. With my V1 Id have to run a 4 core and 3.12 pulley to hit 10-11psi

 

3 core, 3.33 pulley I see 10* around 6000, and shift at 6300 if I am trying

 

Cx 3 core flows pretty good at the lower boost levels. Once it gets around 14# it realy starts to run out of flow and starts to choke out. The most power i made out of a cx 3 core was 460 hp.

 

Im making 400 flat, and need to upgrade more then the intercooler before I go higher

 

I'm surprised honestly. I thought the boost drop was even worse. I'm very happy with my aftercooler setup but the cx works damn good for the price. I'm making 10lbs right now with a 3.6. I'm going to add a 10% OD damper on my new motor which is equal to a 3.24 pulley. That will put me above 14lbs. I honestly look forward to the boost increase the most though because when shifting it will still be a higher level of boost. Right now when I shift it drops to 5-6lbs then works its way back up. It shouldnt ever drop below 8lbs with the new setup.

 

If you're trying to get rid of the vortech intake I would honestly just follow Stal's link for that homemade power pipe (I actually bought the same setup). That would be your best bet, cheap and effective.

 

im not sure how efficent the vortech aftercooler is but im sure it is very efficent. you have proven to me that the lower temp vortechs work very well with air to water compaired to the hot ass twin screws. i just wonder if there is a point where the core size gets to small and stops effecently cooling iat's. that is is the main problem with cobra's and why they get iat's well in the hundreds and since water takes so long to cool it just stays heat soaked. your setup is pretty bad ass with the killer chiller though.

as for the cx racing ic's i have had lots of success running them. in the past i have run both 3 core and 4 core. the 3 core is plenty for a stock motor vortech/other brand small unit. but the 4 core has very minimal boost drop and several people have run well into the 700's and up with it.

 

Man I didn't realize the cx 4 core handled 700+ ! That's pretty damn impressive especially when looking at the cost.

 

Ya no ****. I really thought about running the 4 core one or a treadstone but neither would ever pass smog in california. So I went balls out with the aftercooler setup. I purchased everything used but the killer chiller. It was still twice the price of a new cx racing though. Its hard to beat the reliability or simplicity of an air to air. I just new i would be screwed though because if you pulley up the vortech you loose the 3 year warranty (goes to 1 year) and it would never pass smog inspection. Thats another reason why my new motor has an IW 10% OD damper on it... If they wont let me change the blower pulley I'll just change the damper. **** em. Still get my 14-15lbs!!!

 

If I had the money, I would definetly do the setup you have nightmare. Thats a badass air to water setup. And not having to pulley down "as" much with a air/water is bad ass.

Plus being able to shove ice in the tank between passes is badass, and then KC doing work too.

 

nightmare, you should throw a cxracing 4 core i/c on with a meth kit with your aftercooler and KC setup. IATs will be chunks of ice

 

It already gets so cold that it was filling up with condensation. I had to drill (3) 1/16" holes in the bottom of the aftercooler so the condensation would have a place to escape. It was getting like 4 OZ of water in it if i cruised the freeway. Then it would suck it all up and bog when I jumped on it. I drilled the 3 holes which are so small it doesnt show any boost loss on the gauge bit it lets the water run out instead of puddle in the bottom. Before it would puddle if I cruised part throttle for awhile on the freeway. Now its crisp and clean all the time. Its gotten colder here. Today it was only like 75 degrees here and my IAT at cruise was 48. Water temp was 39 and 40 degrees on my drive home from work. I jumped it one time on a second gear roll up till the top of 4th gear and it got up to 64 degrees lol

 

I put the cobra HE back in last week. I was running only the killer chiller. No real need for it now though because it will be cold here pretty soon. If I had left it off the water would have been even colder I bet. I was seeing water temps of 40-44 degrees even on 90+ degree days before. It lost some efficiency putting the HE back in but its nice to not run the ac pump when its cold out anyways. I can turn it on for about 5 minutes and chill the tank into the 40s though. If the water temp in the tank is 44 though that means the water going though the aftercooler has to be colder than that because it goes into the tank after it LEAVES the aftercooler.

 

 

Your IATs would make some good air conditioning on a 90-100 degree day. :lol

 

lol ya it is pretty insane. I'm excitted to see how it acts on 14lbs of boost. I'm sure it will come up some but I bet its still no higher than ambient ever. I will post some results once the new motor goes in and i have it all tuned.

 

When do you think you'll be getting all that done? I'm looking forward to seeing your results man .

 

I should have it done within the next month or so. Bullet just sent me the wrong cams yesterday so that will put me back a couple more weeks waiting for the right ones. I put down 417 sae on 9lbs with bolt ons and manifold in 85 degree temps last time. Not bad. My cams are setup 4 degree forward though which does help bring out a few more ponies. About 8 to be specific lol. It picked up 5-7hp everywhere and about 10lbs tq when I moved them when it was still a bolt on car.

 

I dont think it picked up SOO much power honestly. It just doesnt fall off as bad in the heat. On a cold night you cant tell a difference between on or off because the water is in the 50-60s anyways (i have a gauge). On a hot day (80+ degrees and the tank is 80-90 degrees and I kick the chiller on to bring it back down to the 40s you CAN tell a seat of the pants difference. Its honestly not a major power adder for a centri car because my iat are already low enough that i'm not pulling timing even in 80 degree weather. I dont pull timing until 150 iat. Now once I kick the boost up and I start seeing some higher temps it will probably really start to show off. As of now the aftercooler with cobra HE mounted in the bottom of the bumper with a dual fan setup on it has worked very well. I have never had heat soak problems like people talk about. I think the aftercooler setup is one of the best out there for a street car when properly setup. It gets a bad wrap mostly from people just repeating what they hear. I wouldnt change it out even for a paxton air to air honestly. I love the setup. Its small. Practically zero boost loss and best of all IT WORKS. With the Killer Chiller its honestly my dream setup for a street car intercooler. Since i added the KC I took the fan setup off and it still doesnt heat soak even with the KC off. If I do start to see water temps above 70 degrees i just kick the KC on. I usually dont run it unless I'm going to be beating on the car. But when I know I'm going to be showing off or i see a car I wouldnt mind running with I kick it on. The water temp will fall into the 40s in a matter of minutes. That is measured at the tank though. That means the water must be at least 10 degrees colder in the aftercooler which is then warmed by boost and dumped into the tank