What I am going to try when I take my lunch today, is I'm going to set the activation RPM on the window switch to 0 so that I can just test to see if the NMU solenoids click and will be setting up my phone to record to see if the light on the NMU turns on. Upon clicking successfully, I will then set it for 030 and perform the same test, granted not being able to hear any audible clicking. I'll just be recording to see if the light on the NMU turns on. Correct me if my assumptions are wrong please. This is just a real headache.

 

Double checked everything and did as I said I would, modified the wiring to include the resistor wire that was included in the kit. Tested it with window at 0 RPMs and "click." Great, so switched it to 030 and 060 and it is activating now during that window.

New issue: Sputtering. Didnt' do this before the window switch. Almost acts like the solenoids are opening and closing. It will start to pull, then stop then start again. The RPMs seem to stay climbing in the window switch and don't get all crazy like some people have problems with.

It's not the usual suspects like a clogged fuel filter or spark plug misfire because if I remove the window switch from the equation, it runs fine. I suppose there's no other option but a bad ground or a weak electrical connection. Will be working on that this evening.

 

Ahh i see you used a coil for the tach signal... I know the instructions say to do so but the coil makes that a really noisy wire for a tach signal source... Use an injector instead and it should resolve your problem. Clamp on to a Negative (black) wire off of an injector.

It may help after rereading your post. My nitrous was acting that way to when I first started running it. Make sure the feed tube inside the bottle is at the bottom side of the bottle. I had my bottle rolled upside down, Line coming off the top and it was causing the nitrous to surge. You want the line to to be facing down.

 

Attached is the bottle set up. I have it at an angle, with the assumption that the feed tube is pointed at a downward angle relative to the Zex sticker on the bottle. At the angle it's at, it should have no problem...I believe.

 

Shouldn't have any feed problems. That is correct. Maybe try getting your tach signal off the injector. When your WOT its hard to say what that window switch is doing on the noisy coil.

What did you do for a tune? A nitrous tune from Bama helped me out.

 

Yeah running the 93 octane 100 shot from bama. Going to rewire it all tomorrow and go off the injector.

 

So I figured it out.

For me anyway, it required getting the tach signal off of the injector wire, not the coil. Now it is not cutting out at all and runs like a champ.

 

did you run the green wire from the window switch to the injector? What injector did U splice into? I'm having thus exact same issue with my window switch. Iv rewired the damn thing three times now, IM getting very aggravated with it.

Also mine is an 04 gt, not sure if it matters or not but just throwing that in.

 

I used my back Firewall driver side injector. It doesn't matter which one at least on the S197's. I am not sure about the 2v's but I couldn't imagine it being any different.

 

Can I ask you a question? I bought a kit and have the same window switch. How did you program your WOT switch coming from the nitrous solenoid? I tried programming it with both white wires connected through the window switch and when I would get done programming and turn the arm switch back on, the solenoids sounded like machine guns. The only way that I am able to program it is if I connect the white wire from the nitrous solenoids directly to my TPS ouput wire, then it works fine.

The instructions doesn't say anything about programming the solenoid box after this is installed. So I am confused on how to actually program it so it knows where WOT is...Am I supposed to program the solenoid's to WOT, and THEN hook up the traction control window switch and then I am good?