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Discussion starter · #4,661 ·
Good news, the injectors will be delivered today according to the tracking.... Ill be back on track after I get them installed this evening....
 
Discussion starter · #4,662 ·
Injectors are in and tuning will continue as soon as this so called storm passes over us...
 
While messing round today i got the methanol likght installed next to my gauge to tell me when the METH is activated.





As bad as i hated to mess up my clean motor i got the fuel rails off and ready for the new injectors.

That is a sick gauge setup, have any close up pics of the meth gauge?
 
Discussion starter · #4,664 ·
Thanks, this is about all ive got for now but i can take some tomorrow. Pretty much all i did was run that green light to trigger when meth is on... On the top dash pod i got another red/green light to tell me when my auxillary fuel pumps kick in and the red one to

Ive got 7 gauges im gauge poor LOL all that extra weight

 
I feel ya about the gauges. Things are not cheap. Already got the lights set up for when Meth is on and when tank is low(green/red). Have mine on the pillar next to Boost and AFR guages. Was wanting to add a multigauge like the Aeroforce interceptor on the steering column pod. Then a Fuel pressure and Meth Pressure gauge in the clock location. That way I figured I would be covered in all aspects of monitoring parameters. Not that when you B*lls out you see anything anyways. LOL. Nice set up though..
 
Discussion starter · #4,666 ·
I feel ya about the gauges. Things are not cheap. Already got the lights set up for when Meth is on and when tank is low(green/red). Have mine on the pillar next to Boost and AFR guages. Was wanting to add a multigauge like the Aeroforce interceptor on the steering column pod. Then a Fuel pressure and Meth Pressure gauge in the clock location. That way I figured I would be covered in all aspects of monitoring parameters. Not that when you B*lls out you see anything anyways. LOL. Nice set up though..
At this point Im trying to get the car tuned in the next week or so get some Dyno numbers and prepare for a few runs at the track..

Im not going to be fast at the track my car is built for fun and im not wiling to give up weight and the suspension needed to do it.
 
That's my goal. I wanted a fun street car to take to shows and maybe track a couple times. But I don't want a cage. With full interior, stereo, around 700 HP I could drive 1000 miles if I wanted to... Already got sub frames and welded in upper and lower torque boxes. That enough for me:)
 
Discussion starter · #4,668 ·
I worked really hard on making the motor clean, and shiny.... No quicker then I made my first mile a coolant clamp failed and made a huge mess under my hood... My wife felt so bad about it she even helped me clean it all up LOL..

Ill be 60 years old still building this car.... I even got another complete motor so when I need to swap in a new motor ive got a spare. Im going to start building on it when I relax a little.
 
That's crazy. Ya, things slow. That's a joke. By the way prior CW@ UH-60 Pilot here:) Miss being in. But anyhow. I hope I never have to drop another motor in, that's why I'm taking my time with it. No mis calculations here. What are you running for bottom end? I would like to clean up my engine bay as well, Hide all the harness and such. Maybe that will be a project after all said and done put back together and running again.
 
Discussion starter · #4,671 ·
That's crazy. Ya, things slow. That's a joke. By the way prior CW@ UH-60 Pilot here:) Miss being in. But anyhow. I hope I never have to drop another motor in, that's why I'm taking my time with it. No mis calculations here. What are you running for bottom end? I would like to clean up my engine bay as well, Hide all the harness and such. Maybe that will be a project after all said and done put back together and running again.
that is a great job to have in the military and im sure a hard one to walk away from.

As far as a bottom end I have a forged Crank, Manley forged pistons, MMR/Manely Forged H beam rods.
 
Ya I it was, but had to for family concerns. In the presses of getting my fixed wing add on now. Anyways. Ya Im running the MMR 900S shortblock in mine.. Strocked, fully forged, studs and all.
 
Discussion starter · #4,673 ·
On my fuel system I am on a return setup...

Ive got 3 GSS 342 Pumps only one runs constant the other two are on a Hobbs Boost reference switch wired to individual LED light indicators on my dash so I can see if power is getting to them and that they are on when they are supposed to be. I monitor my AFR as well as a indicator

My return setup you can see my fuel pressure regulator is in the opening where my intercooler piping is. This is because I am running a dead head setup I do not return any fuel from the rails EVER there is to much heat in there instead I split off the regulator running a Y where I have a line that goes into each fuel rail in the front... To equalize pressure I Put a jumper line in the back of the rail and in the middle of this jumper line is my fuel pressure sensor which is the furthest point of my fuel system dead in the middle of each fuel rail.

I never had issues with my pumps or fuel heating up since going this route and I don't experience any fuel pressure variances
 
Discussion starter · #4,675 ·
Sorry for the crudeness (see attached) but is this what you are speaking of by deadheading your fuel system, From what I gathered this is my interpretation?
Yes that is exactly how I am running mine, Ive got my FRPS fuel rail pressure sensor in the middle of the back side of the rails...

I have a pressure gauge on my regulator but its for looks essentially because I adjust my fuel pressure based off from what the fuel rail pressure sensor is telling me in my data loging. If you use the gauge in the regulator youll be off a few pounds.
 
Ya, I'm going to have mine data logged as well. Although on my car there is no electrical fuel pressure sensor on the 96 platform, my pumps are constant 12V So I'm seriously considering the Hobbs pressure switch. I am already taking my single 12v power going to the(what used to be Single pump) to a duel throw relay that's being fed by 2 direct 12V relays then out the now duel pumps. Thinking of breaking one of them with the Hobbs pressure switch so I'm not pushing that volume of fuel all the time. A little diff from your set up but also close to the same.
See attached for custom built electrical box housing; going into box - 2(12V+) wires going to 2/30A circuit breakers, 2 grounds, original fuel pump (12V+), original ground
coming out of box - 2(12V+) power wires for pumps, 2 grounds for pumps. both connectors are twist lock
 

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There's just so much crap to do a wire tuck on these mod motors.
I did a wire tuck and it made a world of difference in appearance.
 

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Evil02gt - Damn that's really nice. Did you have those fender covers made? Good job man.
You can purchase the panels from Scott Rod fabrications. And thanks for the compliment.
 
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