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lowering the 6er...

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#22 ·
I kept the stock isos in, work fine, no noise. If you're on stock shocks/struts they probably won't last long after lowering, but they aren't hard to replace, so wait if you see that as best. You'll know pretty quickly after an alignment if you want/need CC plates or not. From the history of feedback on this forum on that topic, some do, some don't. With 18"s and the pro kit it was a definite necessity for MY car. These cars seem to take slightly differently to mods, maybe its the install, maybe its supporting mods and all, but its always best to see what your car does and how your car responds to mods, rather than following the crowd.
 
#23 ·
goren420 said:
I kept the stock isos in, work fine, no noise. If you're on stock shocks/struts they probably won't last long after lowering, but they aren't hard to replace, so wait if you see that as best. You'll know pretty quickly after an alignment if you want/need CC plates or not. From the history of feedback on this forum on that topic, some do, some don't. With 18"s and the pro kit it was a definite necessity for MY car. These cars seem to take slightly differently to mods, maybe its the install, maybe its supporting mods and all, but its always best to see what your car does and how your car responds to mods, rather than following the crowd.
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+1

I was told I did not need the shocks/struts. I could of been fine without them, but I decided that I should get them just to retain some resembilence(sp) of the stock ride quality.

I was told I needed CC Plates, but I waited. My alignment is off a tad, but I have been driving on them with no CC plates for... going on 5 months now.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
well I can't wait to order these then...

just waiting on AMNick to check his PM's, I always end up doing this, ordering something on a holiday weekend and having to wait, :lol
 
#25 ·
ItaliStang said:
eh... that's still $700 or so just to have my car sit a little lower...

there are a lot better things that money could be used for...lol
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Springs/Dampers/CC-plates can make the car drive completely differently. It's a lot more than just slightly lower. In fact, I'd take the handling improvement over the height change any day.


safi said:
+1 You don't start to lose performance until you get up to a 2 coil cut
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Based on what?

With a linear rate spring, the spring rate is going to begin increasing SIGNIFICANTLY long before you cut 2 full coils... which will lead to an underdamped suspension setup and poor or even dangerous performance.


rfcsoulja said:
You could always snatch some of the shocks and struts off of a Mach (tokico) or a Cobra (bilstein). You can get em pretty cheap if you look around. I got mine off a Mach and my ride is great , I have the pro-kit.
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Well, only the front dampers from a 99-04 Cobra will work (and '99/'01 are Tokico)... but you're right, it's a good way to go if you can find some inexpensively.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
well deciding to go all out and get shocks/struts and CC plates... since I got a hell of a deal on a new set of wheels/tires :D...http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/clubhouse/136922-polishing-turd.html#post2311426

kind of wish I would have gone with the sportlines though instead of the prokit... the front needs to come down a lot, there isn't a big heavy V8 to weigh it down...lol
idk if 1.5" is gonna do it for me, if I even see that much of a drop... AM says it's 1.1" for a 6er vert :dunno

definitely getting MM caster/camber plates... and looking at Tokico Hp shocks/struts...
so basically the same setup as goren420... which his looks amazing, but he's got 18's and is a coupe... I got stock 17's and a vert, lol

anyone else with this setup that has pics so I can check it out? bonus points for pics of a 6er vert with this setup :D haha
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
#30 ·
Yeah, with 18's man I rub at full turn and hard braking (hopefully solve the latter with new brakes get here tomorrow!). Especially with passengers in the car, I want smaller sidewall on my front tires... blah. With 17's you'd be good, but then up to you if you want a heavier drop... don't you wish you could try them out for a week and return them if you wanted lower? If only...
 
#31 ·
goren420 said:
I have the same springs. I went ahead and put MM caster/camber plates and Tokico HP shocks/struts on as well as Steeda ball joints and bumpsteer kit. My car is 1.75" lower than stock height at the side skirt. (on 18" wheels). In my opinion CC plates are completely necessary for that drop, my camber would be horrid without them. I needed new ball joints which is why I went with Steeda ones, and to run the X2's you need the bumpsteer kit (which is adjustable, and I think was a good addition). New shocks/struts arent necessary but stockers wont last long after lowering.

if you want any other help/write-ups etc. let me know.
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how much was that mike?
 
Discussion starter · #32 · (Edited)
focus0frenzy1 said:
how much was that mike?
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perfect timing on bringing this thread back up... haha

cause I just got these in this last weekend :D
it's all getting installed on thursday, if my buddy still lets me use his lift

Image
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
Maximum Motorsports CC plates, Tokico HP shocks/struts... and the Eibach pro kit I've had here for a few weeks :D

total of a little over $700 spent on suspension all together
 
#37 ·
ItaliStang said:
Maximum Motorsports CC plates, Tokico HP shocks/struts... and the Eibach pro kit I've had here for a few weeks :D

total of a little over $700 spent on suspension all together
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Nice man. I got the H&R springs with the same Tokico HP Shocks/Struts you got. I could not install that myself, so I had a shop do it. Ran me about $800 for parts, install, and an alignment.

I need to get me some CC plates...
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
Ok, so was installing everything tonight and hit a few tough spots, maybe if anyone has any advice...

a) removing the front spring...
we tried a spring compressor (the one that hooks down the center of the spring) and there wasn't enough room for the bolt to be tightened and compress the springs... so then we lowered the lift, put a jack under the control arm, took off the strut and sway bar connection, and slowly lowered the control arm...

well, the spring was still tight in there, we did a lot of prying and tugging, and finally pryed it out with frustration (kinda worried about breaking the tie rod... not sure if that's possible by forcing the control arms too low)

getting the new spring back in was a pain in the ass too, because we couldn't use the compressor again, so we just kind of pryed that in place...

Any pointers to make this easier? lol




b) we got the CC plates in place, strut in and ready to be tightened down... but ran into a problem, don't know how to tighten the top bolt... it just spins the whole rod... almost like we need a certain tool to hold the center notch in place while screwing the nut in place... (screwdriver and wrench didn't work)...

is there some special tool for this I'm not thinking of?










other than that, the car is about 3/4 done, just need to finish the front passenger side... but my friends were getting tired...lol

some progress pics...
thinking of eventually painting these red to match... cause my friend suggested we paint the rear diff and axle black just for the hell of it...

Image

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So much easier with my friend's lift... :D
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