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Baker's motor build thread.......

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Discussion starter · #121 ·
yeah when i see the brown truck pass i get all sulled up. Even though i havent bought anything else. I just love it when he stops! lol.
 
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Discussion starter · #124 ·
yeah im scooping up some auto fluid (for cylinders), assembly lube, and some other lil goods that will aid in putting this **** together. Plan on doing it this evening after i spend most the day with the ole' lady! :yes
 
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#125 ·
hey man what fuel stuff/maf are you gonna be using?
 
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Discussion starter · #126 ·
im running a mafia on a LMAF. i NEED to get some 60 pound injectors. Im running the cobra twin pump setup. Looking for a 40 amp bap just for some insurance.
 
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Discussion starter · #128 ·
yea. lol... im considering running off with the other though cause she NEVER opens her mouth bout some bitching. Just sits there and lets me fondle with her. :love
 
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#129 ·
BakerFX4 said:
im running a mafia on a LMAF. i NEED to get some 60 pound injectors. Im running the cobra twin pump setup. Looking for a 40 amp bap just for some insurance.
Click to expand...
gotcha.. that lmaf will need to be upgraded though, i pegged mine at 380 and had to get a mafia.. my tuner said it would only be good for about 475.. i went with the HPX 05+ maf, its a lot better and more accurate than the lmaf. my tuner said its never good to have the piping narrow after the maf and i had some tuning issues with my lmaf..
 
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Discussion starter · #131 ·
bob.... i have a mafia on the lmaf and with a mafia its good for 800+hp. A mafia opens the range to whatever if im not mistaken. Alot of people dont like the mafia because its somewhat a "band aid" fix. but hell my car ran like a champ.
 
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Discussion starter · #133 ·
lol..

Well i got the crank installed and spinning nice and smooth. I will get the guage to check ring gaps in the morning and the ring compressor so i can put the rods and pistons in.

Quick question for engine guys....

Rear upper thrust washer..... The tab on it is smaller than the opening in the main cap (supposed to be like that). Y2k and sweet are telling me that thing is not to move at all. Well if i spin the crank left it, the tab hits the left side of that slot in the main cap. If i go right, it hits the other side of the slot. Very little movement. So i pushed it ALLL the way forward then tighten it all back down. Still same thing. Sweet said there should be VERY SLIGHT play in the crankshaft going forward and backward. VERY slight. My question on this is..... If thats the case then how are you going to have that thrust washer so tight against the main cap that it doesnt flinch when going left then right?

I think all is right and i have followed the book and motor all data.

Next question.... What should my ring gap be on the top ring and secondary ring?
 
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#134 ·
BakerFX4 said:
lol..

Well i got the crank installed and spinning nice and smooth. I will get the guage to check ring gaps in the morning and the ring compressor so i can put the rods and pistons in.

Quick question for engine guys....

Rear upper thrust washer..... The tab on it is smaller than the opening in the main cap (supposed to be like that). Y2k and sweet are telling me that thing is not to move at all. Well if i spin the crank left it, the tab hits the left side of that slot in the main cap. If i go right, it hits the other side of the slot. Very little movement. So i pushed it ALLL the way forward then tighten it all back down. Still same thing. Sweet said there should be VERY SLIGHT play in the crankshaft going forward and backward. VERY slight. My question on this is..... If thats the case then how are you going to have that thrust washer so tight against the main cap that it doesnt flinch when going left then right?

I think all is right and i have followed the book and motor all data.

Next question.... What should my ring gap be on the top ring and secondary ring?
Click to expand...
The thrust washer will rotate in the slot some what. the crank turns in one direction and will ride towards one side. you should have fore and aft play in crank, don't have the specs in front of me but i think it is in the neighborhood of .006. as far as ring gaps check the ring manuf. guide lines for supercharged/gas applications. personally I run .024 top and .022 second if they are not zgs rings
 
Discussion starter · #135 ·
Thanks for the info... you always help me out limited but i had a slight rant at you in that other thread. But its good.

Yeah i was just confused on "thrust washer should not move" yet the crank should slide back and forth at .00X. Can only be one or the other. :dunno
 
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Discussion starter · #136 ·
Farrah's dad owns a machine shop so we are getting some tools tomorrow for ring gap and all. Everything looks good... crank spins VERY nice and smooth and just ready to get on to the rods/pistons.

I ended up buying the lucas assembly lube... seems pretty good. Pretty thick. I think i put too much cause i got it oozing everywhere but hell i heard you can put too much.
 
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Discussion starter · #138 ·
Thanks bro... just what i needed. So once all in installed i need to wash the rods and pistons with soap and water? I noticed little shavings down in the piston from the grinding/balancing. Definitely gotta get that out!
 
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#139 · (Edited)
Discussion starter · #140 ·
hmmm..... yeah just need more opinions for sure then. I know when they heat up the will need somewhere to go. Definitely dont need to butt ends! :no
 
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RyanGT
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