More motor questions Need advice/opinions

bulloch27 · Nov 29, 2012

Shaun03GT said:
Exactly man lol, thats why I try to make sure I get everything I need, so when I start to drop the motor in I dont have to wait a couple days for something retarded.

And I know man, it killed me I couldnt run an 11 this season. I should have. I finished up the year with a 12.10 @ 118mph. On a garbage 1.9 60'. If I had to guess Ill be dropping the motor in sometime around late April/early May. So if all goes well with my stock motor, Ill be racing in April. Trying to go 11's on the stock motor. But this time, Ill be using the MT's. **** this drag radial bs lol

Yep. And drive it like you stole it. You'll be rewarded with a beautiful piece of white paper with little black numbers on it that you've always wanted!

Shaun13GT/CS · Nov 29, 2012

Yup lol. Ive said this, and I hate using it as an excuse, but my clutch is rediculous. Its so heavy, its really not easy banging gears with it. Idk what it is. Swapping it out for probably a twin disc or a Ram powergrip HD. Thats another thing I need to do, find a clutch thatll hold around ~600rwhp and not to heavy.

bulloch27 · Nov 29, 2012

Throw it in the **** pile and go C4. Join the club. All the cool kids are doing it.

Shaun13GT/CS · Nov 29, 2012

Autos are for girls!! Real men drive standards!

bulloch27 · Nov 29, 2012

Autos are for those who are tired of breaking **** and in search of more consistency! Plus I'm getting old, fat and lazy. It's sooooooo much easier to pull the lever two times and then stand on the brake pedal.

In all seriousness I agree the manual is more fun.... but the route I'm taking with the new motor and huge nitrous isn't very manual trans friendly.

Shaun13GT/CS · Nov 29, 2012

I completley agree with you man! If my car was more drag oriented too, I would definitely go auto without a doubt. For street driving, I enjoy standard. And bumper to bumper traffic for an hour is even more fun with a standard! lmao

bulloch27 · Nov 29, 2012

Shaun03GT said:
I completley agree with you man! If my car was more drag oriented too, I would definitely go auto without a doubt. For street driving, I enjoy standard. And bumper to bumper traffic for an hour is even more fun with a standard! lmao

Yep, I can't argue with that one bit.

99mustanggts · Nov 29, 2012

the thing that got me on my heads were my cam journals and cam towers got groves in it and i didnt even know till i took my cams out and the little pieces of metal went in my cylinder bores and you can only imagine

Shaun13GT/CS · Dec 6, 2012

I got some more info on these BBR heads. What do you guys think?

Heres what they come with

1mm oversized Manley Stainless Steel Valves
Custom Valve Job
Beehive Springs 0.600 lift
Comp Retainers

Everything sound good? My application will be like like 18psi revving to hopefully like 7000rpm.

Im bringing the heads to a local machine shop. Getting the heads cleaned/hot tanked/decked. Might do a flow test to.

But he only wants $650 for them (shipped)

Shaun13GT/CS · Dec 6, 2012

Also, what size are stock intake valves? Sense I need +1mm oversized, Manley sells 44.5mm, 45.5, and 46.83mm Intake valves. Im assuming I need the 45.5mm valve??

Can anyone confirm these are good valves for my application? Heres a link to them

Manley SOHC 45.5MM Stainless Steel Intake Valve

Shaun13GT/CS · Dec 6, 2012

BUMP!

Shaun13GT/CS · Dec 7, 2012

Im just going to keep this as my motor thread vs starting a new one everytime I have a question.

Anyways, I found out the car the kid is parting out, used to be JohnnyZ's old 2001 GT with the 2.8KB. It made like 630rwhp @ 15psi on the break in tune.

Anyways, said **** it, decided to call up BBR. They told me, the manager said (Chris) said these were like 1 out of 3 BBR heads made. They dont flow the same as the flow chart I posted. These were there "race" heads. They flow more.

Awesome news, considering I got them for $600. Even if they need a few hundred dollars in machine work, still worth it. Hes going to call me back, there digging up the spec/build sheet to see the flow, and what springs/valves/etc they used in JohnnyZ's car. Sweet!

slow02gt · Dec 7, 2012

awwww so they are hogged out heads?

but its a good deal though as long is everything in the heads are good..

Shaun13GT/CS · Dec 7, 2012

Lol. I have no idea, waiting to hear back from Chris or Steve. Get some more info on these mafuckas!

slow02gt · Dec 8, 2012

i have a low mileage t56 swap shaun if you want

16k on it
26 spline input shaft
spec stage 3+ clutch
spec alum flywheel
driveshaft
pro 5.0 short throw

$2100
20miles on clutch and input shaft

Shaun13GT/CS · Dec 24, 2012

Anyone know where I can get a complete bolt/fastner kit? Want to use all new bolts. Timing cover/oil pan etc... Can't seem to find anything??

Wooboost283 · Dec 24, 2012

Shaun03GT said:
Anyone know where I can get a complete bolt/fastner kit? Want to use all new bolts. Timing cover/oil pan etc... Can't seem to find anything??

Are you going ARP for the heads, mains, rods? Modmax is where i got all my
ARP studs, misc bolts, and gaskets, they got good prices, decent shipping charges as well. helped ease all that looking for proper parts.

Shaun13GT/CS · Dec 24, 2012

Yeah that's true. I think I'm just gonna use oem head bolts. Figure there in cobras and there rated for at least 750rwhp. Which I don't think I'll be making

Wooboost283 · Dec 24, 2012

Shaun03GT said:
Yeah that's true. I think I'm just gonna use oem head bolts. Figure there in cobras and there rated for at least 750rwhp. Which I don't think I'll be making

200$ is a sound investment to not lift the heads regardless if your not pushing enough boost or making enough power lol good tune or not it could happen to anyone, all it takes is a series of unfortunate events and there goes your $2000+investment.....and dont forget theyre re-usable lol. if you want a reliable 500RWHP car then dont skimp out on the little things, otherwise youll end up like the poor bastard who didnt spring up the 100$ for a cobra oil pump and instead re-used his old high mileage pump and lets just say things got messy when the pump failed. thousands of dollars gone in seconds for a measely 100$. Just my 2¢

Shaun13GT/CS · Dec 24, 2012

I definitely agree, but I honestly don't see if I can justify buying studs vs bolts. I'll see, I'm not worried about that right yet.

One good thing about bolts vs studs is, if I had to pull a head, with studs I'd have to pull the motor.

I'll see though, I most likley will buy studs for peace of mind thoufh

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