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What Did You Do Detailing Wise Today?

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#13,884 ·
slonison said:
You wash, and seal your car... 3 days later it rains.... water spots on the car. Do you just use quick detailer and microfiber to get them off?
Click to expand...
It depends on how hard the water was, how long the water sat on the paint ect.

If they are really minor, rewash your car and if they are still their you can try MF+QD. But if they are on there really good. Something like a paint cleaner on your DA polisher will be the quickest way to clean them up. After that youll need to reapply your sealant and NEXT TIME- i would suggest topping your sealant with something very hydrophobic. IME, the more hydrophobic an LSP is, the less likely it is to spot.

You can top it with a wax, spray wax. The hottest topper right now is Sonax Brilliant Shine detailer, its freakin amazing. Spray it on and your car beads like its coated....


here you go, little SBSD in action.


Untitled by ModdedMach, on Flickr
 
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#13,885 ·
ModdedMach said:
It depends on how hard the water was, how long the water sat on the paint ect.

If they are really minor, rewash your car and if they are still their you can try MF+QD. But if they are on there really good. Something like a paint cleaner on your DA polisher will be the quickest way to clean them up. After that youll need to reapply your sealant and NEXT TIME- i would suggest topping your sealant with something very hydrophobic. IME, the more hydrophobic an LSP is, the less likely it is to spot.

You can top it with a wax, spray wax. The hottest topper right now is Sonax Brilliant Shine detailer, its freakin amazing. Spray it on and your car beads like its coated....


here you go, little SBSD in action.


Untitled by ModdedMach, on Flickr
Click to expand...

Definitely, I was pretty vague in my post in the interest of time. However, I have been following the advice very closely. I put the the following together.

  1. Step 1: 2 Bucket Wash Method
  2. Step 2: Clay Bar the Car
  3. Step 3: FG400 + Yellow/Orange Pad - $33.99 + $7.99
  4. Step 4: SBF4500 + White Pad - $44.99 + $10.99
  5. Step 5: BFWD + Black Pad - $39.99 + $10.99
  6. Step 6: Zymol Glasur $101.00 (Currently 100$ on Amazon)

Last but not least, I need to get a 5" backing plate because I only have a 3.5" for about $20. I'm also interested in these things, if anyone has any left over.


If I'm missing anything from a process standpoint, let me know.

All in all, looking like it's going to be between $250-$300 but if I get the right products the first time, I won't need to change for a while.

A couple of pics of what I'm working with:

You can see from here, that there's some pretty gnarly swirling on the hood above the cloud. It's pretty much all over the car.
Image
 
#13,886 ·
slonison said:
Definitely, I was pretty vague in my post in the interest of time. However, I have been following the advice very closely. I put the the following together.

  1. Step 1: 2 Bucket Wash Method
  2. Step 2: Clay Bar the Car
  3. Step 3: FG400 + Yellow/Orange Pad - $33.99 + $7.99
  4. Step 4: SBF4500 + White Pad - $44.99 + $10.99
  5. Step 5: BFWD + Black Pad - $39.99 + $10.99
  6. Step 6: Zymol Glasur $101.00 (Currently 100$ on Amazon)

Last but not least, I need to get a 5" backing plate because I only have a 3.5" for about $20. I'm also interested in these things, if anyone has any left over.


If I'm missing anything from a process standpoint, let me know.

All in all, looking like it's going to be between $250-$300 but if I get the right products the first time, I won't need to change for a while.

A couple of pics of what I'm working with:

You can see from here, that there's some pretty gnarly swirling on the hood above the cloud. It's pretty much all over the car.
Image
Click to expand...
Ok so you havent corrected the car just yet, i see. When you do, those water spots will come right off UNLESS they are type 2 and etched into your clear coat (which i doubt).

Let me save you some money. Dont buy BFWD. There are plenty of other sealants that will cost you less and work the same. And if you wanna spend EVEN less money. Just get Sonax Polymer Net shield. Looks great, lasts 6-8 months and beads like Zymol Glasur. That takes you from 140 down to 30 bucks. If you WANT to wax your car because you like that carnauba look, and you want to use a conventional sealant. Id recommend Menzerna powerlock or Four star ultimate paint protection- both work, feel, and look just as well as BFWD for less money.

My personal suggestion would be to just go with Sonax Polymer Net shield (the **** is good). And spend the money you save on wax for pads. Youll need at least 3 of each color you want if you wanna get your car done in any practical amount of time.

FG400 and SF4500 are a great combo. Im a big menzerna guy and have used them both on many different vehicles, just be sure to finish down FG400 well enough so that SF4500 can refine it as it doesnt have much cut.

Dont forget to do an IPA wipedown after each polishing step- #1 to properly inspect the paint to insure true correction and #2 to clean the surface so your LSP will adhere as well as possible.

Overall your process looks good tho, for sure.

What brand of pads do you plan on using?
 
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#13,887 ·
ModdedMach said:
Ok so you havent corrected the car just yet, i see. When you do, those water spots will come right off UNLESS they are type 2 and etched into your clear coat (which i doubt).

Let me save you some money. Dont buy BFWD. There are plenty of other sealants that will cost you less and work the same. And if you wanna spend EVEN less money. Just get Sonax Polymer Net shield. Looks great, lasts 6-8 months and beads like Zymol Glasur. That takes you from 140 down to 30 bucks. If you WANT to wax your car because you like that carnauba look, and you want to use a conventional sealant. Id recommend Menzerna powerlock or Four star ultimate paint protection- both work, feel, and look just as well as BFWD for less money.

My personal suggestion would be to just go with Sonax Polymer Net shield (the **** is good). And spend the money you save on wax for pads. Youll need at least 3 of each color you want if you wanna get your car done in any practical amount of time.

FG400 and SF4500 are a great combo. Im a big menzerna guy and have used them both on many different vehicles, just be sure to finish down FG400 well enough so that SF4500 can refine it as it doesnt have much cut.

Dont forget to do an IPA wipedown after each polishing step- #1 to properly inspect the paint to insure true correction and #2 to clean the surface so your LSP will adhere as well as possible.

Overall your process looks good tho, for sure.

What brand of pads do you plan on using?
Click to expand...
No idea. I'm literally just crawling through a lot of the things I've seen around this forum, and people don't exactly mention brand and color for each step.

Step 1: 2 Bucket Wash Method
Step 2: Clay Bar the Car
Step 3: FG400 + Yellow/Orange Pad - $33.99 + $7.99
Step 3b: IPA Wipedown
Step 4: SBF4500 + White Pad - $44.99 + $10.99
Step 4b: IPA Wipedown
Step 5: BFWD + Black Pad - $39.99 + $10.99
Step 5: Mezerna Powerlock ($21.99) or Four Star Ultimate Pain Protection ($21.99)
Step 6: Zymol Glasur $101.00 (Currently 100$ on Amazon)
Step 6: Sonax Polymer Net Shield - $27.99

I had originally opted for the Zymol after watching the following (not sold on the Celeste simply due to price):
http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forum...orums/articles-detailing/289327-review-5-way-premium-carnauba-wax-shootout.html

What pads/brand do you recommend for each step?

Also, do you re-use pads or just toss them after the correction?
 
#13,888 ·
slonison said:
No idea. I'm literally just crawling through a lot of the things I've seen around this forum, and people don't exactly mention brand and color for each step.

Step 1: 2 Bucket Wash Method
Step 2: Clay Bar the Car
Step 3: FG400 + Yellow/Orange Pad - $33.99 + $7.99
Step 3b: IPA Wipedown
Step 4: SBF4500 + White Pad - $44.99 + $10.99
Step 4b: IPA Wipedown
Step 5: BFWD + Black Pad - $39.99 + $10.99
Step 5: Mezerna Powerlock ($21.99) or Four Star Ultimate Pain Protection ($21.99)
Step 6: Zymol Glasur $101.00 (Currently 100$ on Amazon)
Step 6: Sonax Polymer Net Shield - $27.99

I had originally opted for the Zymol after watching the following (not sold on the Celeste simply due to price):
http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forum...orums/articles-detailing/289327-review-5-way-premium-carnauba-wax-shootout.html

What pads/brand do you recommend for each step?

Also, do you re-use pads or just toss them after the correction?
Click to expand...
If you use Sonax polymer net shield, you wont need anything else really. Thats why i suggested it. You can leave out the MPL or FSUPP if you use SPNS.

I use BuffnShine pads (Same as Uber from Phil @ DD) and i love them. Cheap, durable and they work great. If you are using a PC or GG polisher, i would invest in some MF cutting pads to use rather than orange or yellow foam, the reason being that they will exacerbate the potential cutting power of those polishers combined with FG400, they will also maintain their cut for more sections before full cleaning is really needed.

For finishing, go with a blue BnS pad. Has VERY little cut, but just enough to refine and finish perfectly. If you bought 3 BnS MF cutting pads and 3 blue pads, you could do your whole car in 2 steps and only have to wash your pads a few times.

I wash my pads, everyone does, the pads will do MANY cars if you treat them right and clean them properly. I usually use Meguiars APC diluted down pretty mild (like 10-15:1). That or MF detergent (depends on the day lol).

Just for reference BnS pads from heavy cut to finishing:
Mf cutting
Yellow
Orange
White
Green
Blue
Black or Red (both have basically no cut)

MF finishing pad fits somewhere in the blue region, but i think most people prefer foam for finishing.
 
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#13,889 ·
Talked to my friend about doing some vandalism repair on his girlfriend's vehicle that recently got keyed at a local bar. I have yet to see it but it seems like he will be ordering the touch up paint and I will attempt to fill in the deep scratches with touch up and them blend them with the existing panel by removing the excess touchup paint and follow up with correcting the damage and sealing the finish. Ill let you guys know if I end up attempting to do the repair or if he is going to just take it in to get resprayed
 
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#13,892 ·
Skip the IPA wipedown step after compound/polish. do a wash because there is going to be dust from correcting and your not going to get it all just wiping it down. you need to flush out all the little crevices and such.
 
#13,893 ·
Stevey92 said:
Slonison do you have a garage to do the correction in?

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I will compile this information again later. Into a method and steps list. I always put together a parts/equipment list, a cost, and a steps list.

I don't have a garage to do it in right now. But I want to make sure that when I do I have the tools and equipment I need to make sure I can get it done. Right now, I'm in a parking garage, which surprise surprise, doesn't have outlets. So I'm still working on the place to do it part.
 
#13,898 ·
So, i was thinking about how bored I am at home and decided to do a day long detail tomorrow. I then remembered the assload of stuff my mother needs me to do for her tomorrow :/

And its raining on saturday. Maybe i'll be deserving of that ACC tag in my sig on sunday.
 
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