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Discussion starter · #581 ·
Honestly im not 100 percent sure what each manufactureer does but I do know that some of the manufacturers run the car on a dyno then off to the rain room prior to sale so they are essentially broke in at the factory. This is like anything else there is more then one way and Im not saying my way is right or wrong but I am doing it my way since I have spent thousands of dollars and prefer to break in in like the manufacturere of some of my parts suggested.
 
Way better to be safe than be sorry in a couple of thousand miles...
 
Im not saying you should or shouldn't. But do people break in brand new cars? Some do, some don't. I don't blame you at all breaking the engine in. Your ride, your decision.
 
Discussion starter · #584 ·
Im not saying you should or shouldn't. But do people break in brand new cars? Some do, some don't. I don't blame you at all breaking the engine in. Your ride, your decision.
Read your owners manual there is a break in period in the manual, when I get home ill find the procedure for the new lexus I just bought.

Y2Ko2 im not busting your nuts but have you not rebuilt your motor a couple times or more? I not saying its a coincidence but it might be.

Here is the break in for a new 2014 911 Porsche

Break in hints for the first 2,000 miles (3,000 kilometers)
The following tips will be helpful in obtaining optimum performance from your new Porsche.

Therefore:
Preferably take longer trips.
Avoid frequent cold starts with short-distance driving whenever possible.
Avoid full throttle starts and abrupt stops.
Do not exceed maximum engine speed of 4,200 rpm (revolutions per minute).
Do not run a cold engine at high rpm either in Neutral or in gear.
Do not let the engine labor, especially when driving uphill. Shift to the next lower gear in time (use the most favorable rpm range).
Never lug the engine in high gear at low speeds. This rule applies at all times, not just during the break-in period.
Do not participate in motor racing events, sports driving schools, etc. during the first 2,000 miles (3,000 kilometers


2014 Ford Mustang Owner's Manual says:

Calculating Fuel Economy
Do not measure fuel economy during the first 1000 miles
(1600 kilometers) of driving (this is your engine’s break-in period); a
more accurate measurement is obtained after 2000 miles–3000 miles
(3200 kilometers–4800 kilometers).
 
Discussion starter · #587 ·
Running a manual boost controller like that in the car could give you issues because there is so much vacuum tube between the controller and the wastegate.
 
Yes it is but I want to run a manual boost controller and don't know which one to buy. For now ill stay away from anything that's electronic. Im looking at this one now Im thinking about running this one in the cabin and using it.


Turbosmart Boost Tee Blue Boost Controller TS 0101 1001 New | eBay
I remember you mentioning how you didn't want to add any more gauges. There are some boost electronic boost controllers that aren't gauges. Some you could mount in the center console or glove box. The only downside is they're roughly $100-200 more than what you posted.

Running a manual boost controller like that in the car could give you issues because there is so much vacuum tube between the controller and the wastegate.
In my personally experience with a manual boost controller, it was almost always subject to spiking. I had a nissan 240sx with an sr20 4 cylinder. Small turbocharger with a 7 psi spring on the wastegate. I adjusted the controller to hold roughly 14psi but it would always do a quick spike to 17-18 psi before it would settle at 14. I had an aggressive tune and on hot days I could hear the detonation during the spike. I eventually just got a 14 psi wastegate spring.

There are people out there who have absolutely no issues with manual boost controllers, so I'm definitely not knocking it SSG. Back then I was a teenager and extremely impatient. I'm just hopefully filling you in on some potential issues you may have to sort out. It can, and has been done problem-free however.

Kaush does have a point though. The longer the vacuum hose, the less responsive it will be. There's just so much more volume to fill.
 
Discussion starter · #591 ·
Damn a few things are not going the way I want them to like this whole boost control issue I'm going to be forced into a Eboost2 i'm sure, but what did people do before that?

Also Today I got pissed off at all the wires in my trunk so I stripped them out and moved my battery back to the front of the car. This is one modification I wish I would have never done. Im trying to find a good location to ground out my battery to up front any suggestions cause I cant remember where the factory location was. Here is a picture with the battery back in the front. il need to relocate my fancy little catch can but that's ok with me. Tomorrow im supposed to have some parts show up so I can finish my brakes and put on my tires.




---------- Post added at 09:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:36 PM ----------

I remember you mentioning how you didn't want to add any more gauges. There are some boost electronic boost controllers that aren't gauges. Some you could mount in the center console or glove box. The only downside is they're roughly $100-200 more than what you posted.



In my personally experience with a manual boost controller, it was almost always subject to spiking. I had a nissan 240sx with an sr20 4 cylinder. Small turbocharger with a 7 psi spring on the wastegate. I adjusted the controller to hold roughly 14psi but it would always do a quick spike to 17-18 psi before it would settle at 14. I had an aggressive tune and on hot days I could hear the detonation during the spike. I eventually just got a 14 psi wastegate spring.

There are people out there who have absolutely no issues with manual boost controllers, so I'm definitely not knocking it SSG. Back then I was a teenager and extremely impatient. I'm just hopefully filling you in on some potential issues you may have to sort out. It can, and has been done problem-free however.

Kaush does have a point though. The longer the vacuum hose, the less responsive it will be. There's just so much more volume to fill.
Thanks That's the boost controller I was looking at but it would have to be mounted in the engine bay as close to the turbo as possible but that may be what I do. I don't want to be messing with this all the time anyhow. Unlike a centri if I want to raise boost I will just raise up the hood and make an adjustment.
 
Discussion starter · #592 ·
I thought about things last night and if I need a elecetrical Boost control to make things work the best then im going to get one but not in the form of another gauge. this morning I found an electircal gadget I like, I was considering a CD player delete anyhow and this would fit perfectly into a custom plate if i make one.
What do you all think about the Eboost Street? Im going to need to get ahold of Bob again and see what he thinks about this as well and see if he would like tuning with this style.
 
Just saw your PM. For priming a fresh engine, I use my homemade pressurized primer.


Priming before each startup on my 4V car is handled by a 1-1/2 qt Moroso accumulator, an electric solenoid valve, and a one-way flow control valve. You can see the accumulator peeking out from behind the fender in this picture.



Im trying to find a good location to ground out my battery to up front any suggestions cause I cant remember where the factory location was.
Ground to the engine block, and also ground the engine block to the chassis.

Break-in will vary a little based on what rings you're running, but it is important to seat the rings as quickly as possible. Firing a fresh engine and letting it idle for a long period of time is the opposite of what you want to do.
 
Discussion starter · #594 ·
Thanks Tangstang How about that bolt on the Power steering pump I already have the engine grounded to the chasis. Perhaps I should ground the battery there as well?
 
@SSG: how much do you know about boost controllers? There are some advantages to an electronic boost controller over a manual one. The biggest is the boost onset. Because of the nature of a manual boost controller to bleed off pressure to achieve it's goal, it would create a slower spool than an electronic boost controller at the same pressure. Ana electronic boost controller can be setup to allow the wastegate to see absolutely no pressure until desired boost is reached, in which case the solenoid would open, placing manifold pressure on the wastegate diaphragm.

Because there isn't any pressure on the diaphragm of the wastegate until boost is reached (or shortly before to prevent spiking), the wastegate doesn't have a cracking period where it begins to vent a small amount of exhaust gasses. Of course anything vented is slowing the spool. This cracking period is present with just a spring or with a manual boost controller due to pressure on the diaphragm if that makes sense. This is the big advantage of an electronic controller over a manual one or over just swapping wastegate springs.
 
Thanks Tangstang How about that bolt on the Power steering pump I already have the engine grounded to the chasis. Perhaps I should ground the battery there as well?
I'd suggest an engine mount bolt over a power steering pump bolt. Redundancy in engine/chassis grounding will not be in any way detrimental.
 
Discussion starter · #597 ·
I don't know much about boost controllers at this point so you all are who im leaning on to get the right piece. What did you think about the eboost street?

---------- Post added at 08:24 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:22 AM ----------

I'd suggest an engine mount bolt over a power steering pump bolt. Redundancy in engine/chassis grounding will not be in any way detrimental.
I'll find me a bolt on the block then to ground to, my memory sucks I can't remember where the factory grounded out the battery or I would have used that same point.

---------- Post added at 08:27 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:24 AM ----------

Thanks for the help guys I repped those it would let me.
 
...I can't remember where the factory grounded out the battery or I would have used that same point.
The factory location is a stud attaching the engine mount to the engine block.
 
Discussion starter · #599 ·
The factory location is a stud attaching the engine mount to the engine block.
Thanks that's what ill do ill take off one of the nuts on the engine mounts and reinstall the ground there.
 
The eBoost 2 is a really nice controller. It has a lot of built-in adjustability for the user such as boost ramp rating, sensitivity, and RPM-based boost stages I believe. It really depends on what your're looking for out of the controller. I'm pretty sure it's in the $500-600 range, but you get what you pay for.It's definitely on the higher-end side of boost controllers.

There's an E3 that works for me with an Evo 9 and he has the AEM TruBoost and matching AEM UEGO wideband gauge. I don't think there's as many features in the TruBoost, but it's also not as expensive.
 
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