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Discussion starter · #21 ·
If you are not using a power adder then get a cheap kit with I beam rods and Hyper pistons. Have a good machine shop do the work. Bring the pistons out of the deck a few thousanths, mill the heads down to around 54ccs and with the right cam and intake you will have a bullet.
No power adder, what cams would work with what u posted??
 
Ok, also do i need to have the Eagle crank i mentioned in earlier post balanced?? I have the stock FW, and a Fluidampr H002005. I gotta call fluidampr sfi and get specs though.
Yes, have the entire rotating assembly balanced.


No power adder, what cams would work with what u posted??
What kind of heads and intake?
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Thanks guys for the advice, its getting late gonna call it a night. Im sure ill need more help/advice in a few days. Thanks again.:cool:
 
My heads are Edelbrock 6037s and edelbrock perf rpm U/L.
Those heads aren't great but they are better than stock. For an off the shelf cam use a TFS-51402001, Comp Cams XE276HR or something similar.

1slo5.0 is damn near the god of 5.0's on here, but that's gonna be pretty high compression for a street car if using flat tops with a 5-6 cc piston. Just be aware, that will put you around the 10.8:1 ratio.
Nothing wrong with 10.8:1 on the street, especially with aluminum heads.
 
Not saying there is anything wrong with it, he just needs to keep in mind that he needs to use premium fuel at all times and may not be able to have his timing as far advanced as it is now. And just make sure his cooling system is functioning properly to keep the heat out of the heads. That's all I was getting at. With near 11.1 comes some potential issues.
 
You don't want 50 oz, factory is 28, or nuetral is better, but costs more. Your flyweel is 28 also. Give me some more specs of your motor. What is the bore diameter now? What are you using for heads. As far as camshaft goes, what intake do you have, throttlebody size, maf size, injector size? And you say your driving style would be.... aggressive street?
Wrong, factory is 50, Most stroker kits are 28.
 
yeah if he gets a rotating assembly it will tell him weather its a 28 or 50oz counter balance.
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
Hey guys i found a complete running Explorer motor, question is can i use that motor?? Are they rollers and correct me if im wrong but i thought explorers were distibutorless??? Idk what way to go though, one minute i want a completely new motor and the next i want something that runs. Hell idk? If i get the Explorer motor that gives me another set of heads and intake. Ive already got a set of GT40s and a orginal tube GT40 intake.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
Its a 01 model motor, is it a direct drop in or do i need to swap some stuff? What # injectors do they come with?? And if it will drop in, will the maf sensor from the xplorer work?? Im on a learning curve guy, please be patient. Gonna be a lot of ???s
 
It will drop right in, you're going to want to change the cam out and I would do valvesprings at the least while you're in there. Those engines had the GT-40P heads, so depending on the headers you have, you might need 90* or 45* plug boots (I forget which so maybe the p head guys can answer that). That MAF won't work as far as I know, and I believe those intakes had external EGR, which doesn't mean anything if you don't plan on using the EGR system.
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
Im still up in the air on the Explorer motor or a complete rotating kit. If i buy the motor i have money left to do some other things. I want the car running and reliable! If i leave the stock springs for now, how much cam can i throw at it?? Also can i pull the explorer upper and add my GT40 tubular, a direct bolt on??
 
Also can i pull the explorer upper and add my GT40 tubular, a direct bolt on??
Yes it will bolt right in. Other then it looking better then the explorer intake theres not much of a difference, they flow about the same. The cobra and explorer intake are cast versions of the tubular gt40. The negatives about going with a gt40 tubular is cost. The pros are they look great and will get rid of heat a little quicker then the cobra and explorer. But if your looking to save some money i would just keep the explorer or for the same money your going to spend on the tubular gt40 you could get and trick flow or holley systemax intake that will flow much better
 
Im still up in the air on the Explorer motor or a complete rotating kit. If i buy the motor i have money left to do some other things. I want the car running and reliable! If i leave the stock springs for now, how much cam can i throw at it?? Also can i pull the explorer upper and add my GT40 tubular, a direct bolt on??
Stock valve springs? Stock cam. Anything else and you are asking for trouble. I'd be willing to bet if checked the pressure of your springs you would need new springs right now anyway even with the stock cam. Bad valve springs will make an engine a turd no matter what parts or power adders it has.
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
Ive got the TFS spring kit in my cart at Summit, i dont have a stock cam, i do have a Compucam 2030 i dont dont know the spec too. What other cam options with the spring kit mentioned above?? I already have the Tubular GT40, got it on trade last summer. Might as well use it.
 
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