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Need help with brakes

996 views 13 replies 6 participants last post by  dabsevo  
#1 ·
2 days ago, I changed out all the brake pads and resurfaced the rotors on my car. The pulsating issue is gone, brakes are much better quality.
HOWEVER, the driver side rear brake is dragging. After driving for only a few mins it will start smelling like burning brake pads and I just went out to check and the newly resurfaced rotor has that bluish color from being burned due to the high temp (i.e. what happens on titanium tips). The passenger side seems fine.

I jacked up the rear of the car, turned off the e-brake and tried to spin the tire freely with my hand. Definitely resistance. I also felt this when I was driving, like something was slowing my car down. I also got a drop from 18 MPG to 13 MPG. So it's dragging for sure.

Not sure how to proceed, I have a few questions:

1) When I was doing the rear brakes, I had the caliper off and hung on the lower control arm. I got in the car and started her up and then instinctively pressed the brake pedal. It went to the floor and without thinking I was like "why is it doing that? and kept pressing down. I pumped maybe 3-4 times before I realized my brakes weren't installed. I stopped, turned the car off and checked the pistons.

The driver side rear piston was way out. there was about 2" of room still inside the caliper. I used the brake caliper tool to push it back in but it was HARD. I had to use a breaker bar to turn the little handle, couldn't do it by hand.

The passenger side piston (surprisingly), did not even come out. I'm pretty sure it's not seized because I pushed the piston in on the passenger side but it's weird that it did not come out when I pressed the brakes??

Did I **** something up? Do i have to bleed the brakes?

2) I went to a mini track and the rear brakes were smoking and being burnt. You can sell it being burned even after a few laps. Could be normal esp since I had TCS on but the front pads were not even phased. This is a few weeks ago before the brake job. Could this be a sign that the rear calipers have problems?

Will a bleed job fix this?


Dont really know how to proceed from here..

Assuming the worst case scenario, the caliper is busted. I would need new calipers right? Should I just go to Oreillys or autozone and get an OEM caliper or are there comparable (cost) alternatives for aftermarket upgrades?
 
#2 ·
Bleeding the brakes are not going to do anything because the system was never opened, there shouldn't be any air in there. You may have blown out the brake piston. They are made for a certain amount of travel and you may have exceeded it by pumping the brakes while the caliper was off. WTF dude, but that is another discussion. Well I have to ask, why were you starting the car in the middle of a brake job? Anyways, pull the caliper and see if you can compress the piston with the brake tool. You shouldn't have to use a breaker bar or anything like that to compress it. You can also pull the piston dust boot and see if there is brake fluid in there. That would be a dedinite sign that you blew the piston. I think I got my caliper from NAPA or Autozone, I don't think I got it from the dealership, but it has ford stamped on the outer caliper piece just like the factory.

And I know I should have asked this before but it would be wrong to assume, did you line up the slot in the piston with the nub on the brake pad?
 
#4 ·
Haha I know I sound like an idiot. But I only started working on cars for real (aside from an oil change) for 9 months or so.

The reason why I started up the car was because I also had a rear rattling noise that seemed to come on when the car was on meaning it might be exhaust related. So I got in the car and instinctively pressed the brakes. And pressed it a few more times. lol

Ill check the brake piston boot cover. The piston did compress with the brake caliper tool, I mean i was able to get it back in and install the brakes and drive around. It was just really difficult with a lot of resistance.
I'm going to have to check the caliper notches with the brake pads and make sure it's on there. I cant see through the caliper so not sure how you can tell if it's 100% perfectly inside the slot though.

Worst case scenario I might have to take it to dealership if I cant figure this out.. ugh

when you say caliper tool your not taking c clamp right

Naw you have to turn the pistons for the rear so I rented the tool from Oreillys
 
#6 ·
When you turned the rear caliper's with the tool the two slots that let the tool turn are suppose to face a certain direction once you are done. Pulled the entire side off and check the caliper. Make sure the notches are in the right spot and like boss said check the piston.
3:25 in the video

---------- Post added at 04:19 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:14 PM ----------

You will have resistance when you turn the piston in because there is fluid in the line.
 
#9 ·
Not sure what caused it but I pulled the wheel off, pulled the caliper and checked the slider pins. Moves freely. I pulled the brake pads off as well as the retainer pins. Just cleaned the pins and put some anti-seize on them. I also used the caliper piston tool to check to see if the caliper was seized. Nope. It was moving freely.
I also checked the notches and it was lined.
Anyway, I just put everything back together and spun the wheels and it spins without resistance. Also the burning smell went away. Not sure what the problem was but it's gone now.

Thanks for the help guys.
 
#12 ·
Ha ha Bro. I just had a brain fart moment. My whole rear axel is out of the car so my calipers are tied up hanging in the wheel wells. Well I'm pulling my driveshaft off and I gotta put it in neutral to get to the bolts. So I step on the brakes to get the shifter out of park and I hear a couple of brake pads hit the floor. I just laughed at myself and thought of you.
 
#13 ·
LOL Boss...easy to do. :thumb: Been there, done stuff like that.