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It does matter some, but you wont be able to get your engine hot, obviously.

Looks like valves for the driver side, and some digging on the passenger head to see where the comp is leaking by for the low/weak numbers
 
Looks like bent valves to me. I will get my cylinder head from my shop this weekend. You will need to swap your valve springs onto it because I had beehive springs and they were sold with my old cams, but other than that, you should be fine.
 
Take a cap full of trans fluid and drop it in each cylinder, then go back and do the compression test again.

If it goes up, its prob the rings, if it doesnt change, it's in the valve train.

Do thisj ust on the side you had the compression on. The side with 0 compression will need 8 valves
 
When you run a compression check on that side you should have at least 150psi. You'll probably have 0
Compression test results:
1-100
2-105
3-80
4-100
5-0
6-0
7-0
8-0
Can I say I called it? The passenger bank is kindof low though too. Not low enough to be valves IMO. Does the engine have forged pistons? That could be part of why it's low.
 
Discussion starter · #146 ·
Take a cap full of trans fluid and drop it in each cylinder, then go back and do the compression test again.

If it goes up, its prob the rings, if it doesnt change, it's in the valve train.

Do thisj ust on the side you had the compression on. The side with 0 compression will need 8 valves
Ok cool, I'll try that tonight when I get off of work. Just pour it into the plug holes?

Can I say I called it? The passenger bank is kindof low though too. Not low enough to be valves IMO. Does the engine have forged pistons? That could be part of why it's low.
I have no clue. We're taking the heads off tonight but I have no way of knowing if they're forged or not.
 
well if you are taking the heads off, then dont worry about the trans fluid down the plug hole. You will have the heads off and can inspect the pistons, valves etc.

Gerbig, you have a pm
 
Discussion starter · #148 ·
When I looked down into the heads, all of them on the driver side bank looked like ****. All kinds of carfbon/black ****. Just nasty. On the passenger side however, the only one that looked like that was #3 The rest were silver and shiny. Maybe that's a sign?
 
Everything you have said points to bent valves. That resulted from the cam not being timed properly. If you cam is 180 out that is the ONLY way you can mess up cam timing and not bend valves, anything else and it's bye bye valves.

Not that you need to worry about anything else, but if your valves are bent that bad then there's a chance that the rod bearings might've been damaged too. Sorry to rain on an already torrential parade.
 
Discussion starter · #152 ·
What a dick. :lol JK. I guess I need to pull the oil pan too?
 
It wouldn't hurt, just to be safe. You gotta think, when those valves bent, they pushed pretty hard on that piston and there probably wasn't much, if any oil pressure at the time, becuase I'm sure it happened before the engine started. You might not find anything wrong, but I'm a "better safe than sorry" kindof person.
 
Discussion starter · #154 ·
We pulled the oil pan before installing and spun the motor a few times and it was all perfectly smooth a d everything looked great
 
The valves were probably already bent when you bought the engine. Like I said before, the whole deal sounded kindof shady to me. Whoever you got the engine from is a dick!
 
Discussion starter · #156 ·
Yeah. I got ripped off on the car, ripped off on the 03 engine, now rippeod ff on this engine. Its like a never ending web of bad things lol
 
Discussion starter · #159 ·
Too bad I've drained my entire savings account these past months lol
 
I hear ya. If I knew at the beginning of my project what I know now I would've just bought a bone stock reman engine and put it in my vert and then bought a coupe for myself so the wife could have the vert and I could gut the car how I want to.
 
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