Car update stuff:

Over the moon with it. Smooth as silk. After taking the no load rev data and a little extrapolation I updated the MAF transfer function. It drives like a dream. It's incredible. No hesitation, no bucking, no breaking up, no stalling. I made more progress in a week with this hardware than I did in two years. I've got it up about as fast as I can get around town and it's all on the money. +/-3% everywhere, +/-1% in a lot of areas. For what it's worth most tuners say being within 5% is about all you can ask for, and you'll be chasing your tail to get it perfect. If I wasn't polling all the data all the time you wouldn't even know. I can actually get even more aggressive with the dashpot and DFSO functions now if I wanted, rather than using them as a bandaid to make it behave better.

Wicked's tuning corner:
This whole setup is pretty trick. I've got TunerPro RT and my wideband function loaded. Now everything is working as it should. You can run it and run through whatever duty cycle you need. You start off with the no load revs. Just sitting in neutral, bring it up from idle little by little, let it stabilize at each step for a bit, and keep creeping it up and up in 500 or 1000 RPM increments.

Now once you do that, you can see how much deviation there is using a histogram function. It's really the same as LiveLink in that regard too. I find it works best as a "running average". In the simplest way, you can plot your STFTs versus your MAF signal. With the more sophisticated approach of fuel error (as built in to the efidynotuning adx file, but you can do the same with an equation in LiveLink), you find a total delta combining both the STFT and the wideband reading.

I'm sure I lost a lot of you there, so here's an example.

Let's say at 130 counts you have a STFT of 0.75 and a wideband reading of 16 (1.136 lambda for E10 gasoline, or AFR actual/AFR stoichiometric, in this case 16/14.08). That means the ECU is adding 25% fuel, and it's still 13.6% lean, so your total error is 25+13.6=38.6%. You multiply that airflow point by 1.386, and it should be right on the money.

If you have a Quarterhorse, you can do that on the fly! Though honestly I like to run my points, finish, look at the data, adjust things, and reload the tune. But that's still a 5 minute or less process rather than a 30-45 minute process with the SCT software. I highly recommend it.

Now you can do that throughout the whole range. The histogram tells you which cells are off and by how much. You multiply accordingly. If it's in between MAF points, you may have to interpolate. For the higher end ones, you'll have to extrapolate. For instance if your free rev only goes up to 200 counts, and you multiply the 200 count point by 1.3, you also multiply everything above 200 by 1.3.

Once you have all that done, you can repeat the process on the road. It can get a little tricky here. Lots of jumping around with shifting or DFSO can throw your data off, so the more of it that's just a nice steady drive and lugging up, the better your data will be. Then you run it through the same process and update accordingly.

The only exception is where commanded lambda is <1, normally as you approach full load and/or boost. In this case you're usually in open loop so your STFTs are 1 anyway, and you just need to make sure the AFR matches the one in your stabilized fuel map based on RPM and load. It can get to be a bit of a pain if your map varies a lot based on RPM and load. But once you do a good WOT pull, that will get most of the curve populated, as long as you don't zip through it too quick.

 

Very cool! Glad to see you've got it working!

 

Saweeeeeet

 

I need to do a better job of uploading pictures and video.

Went to a car show last week. Due to the heat there was about 30 cars...and more than 30 trophies. Thought I had a good shot. There were 4 cars in my class, and they gave trophies for 1st, 2nd and 3rd. Guess who went home empty handed, losing out to a stock 1985 Silverado? Even got **** talked by the judges about the exterior and broken trunk struts. At least I got 3 points for having a fire extinguisher, 1 point for being a daily driver, 1 point for interior, and 1 point for the engine for a grand total of 6 points, including a 0 for the exterior. I didn't see any other cars get a 0 for anything. So...par for the course on the car I guess. They don't call it a dumpsterfire for nothing.

On to the more fun stuff. Romped on it some more. She pulls hard, but not as hard as I'd like. This time giving it 75% throttle I made 10psi at 4000 RPM, still short of what it should be making. Airflow and load data match up to what I saw; still short of what it should be making, maybe around 425hp, 1.45 load vs the 500hp and 1.9X load it should see. I also did a quick 1st-2nd pull. It pulled hard, enough to lock up the seat belts and pop some of the gauges out, but didn't even register boost. I doubt the 300hp NA version would do that.

I know the turbos are making their 5psi by 2500 RPM at 50% throttle from the previous test. Boost climbs with RPM. It should spike up to 8psi from the blower right away and then climb like a rocket as the turbos spool. The question is why. Could the blower have an issue with achieving its pressure ratio? Is it just not behaving like an ideal compressor? I don't think it's completely off since the turbos light way faster than they should on their own, and it makes more than 5psi total. Is the boost gauge off? You know I calibrated it before.

I've got plenty of levers to crank the boost up if need be. Going to a smaller pulley will do it, but will create more heat. I could switch the boost reference for the wastegates to the manifold and command them to 15psi regardless of what the blower does. Just a matter of turning her up if need be.

I'll try to get some pictures and video up this week, even if it isn't at full power.

 

Switched around the bypass valve reference. Seemed to help a little, but not a ton. Easier to break the tires loose in 1st. One blip of the throttle did it at one point. Then today I rolled into it, and when the turbos lit, it knocked them loose. Still not seeing the full 15psi on the gauge I want, but it does hit pretty hard.

I'm going to switch the wastegate references. Right now they're set at 5psi and relying on the blower's 1.56 pressure ratio to get to the full 15. I thought it would better keep me from overboosting, but it might be holding me back. I checked with another guy running a similar compound setup and he's referencing the manifold. It looks like I'm going to try that route and see if it gets me the full 15 I want.

But here's the juicy stuff, even if it was only 3/4 throttle and not making full boost. Still sounds pretty decent, even if it doesn't capture how it felt.

 

Always new ****.

Sliced my hands to ribbons changing up the boost reference lines to the wastegates. Rather than 5psi pre-throttle they're set to 15psi at the manifold. And to make sure I taped a known good pressure gauge to the column to see what it would do with the configuration.

Well hot damn does it make 15psi now. Didn't get to see how fast it was with keeping my eyes on the pressure gauge and wideband, but it sure performs. Didn't get video of it just yet.

The shutdown didn't go quite as well. After letting out the wideband gave me an error, and the engine sounded like dogshit. Uh oh. As the car slowed down it sounded awful, and loud. I had a bad feeling, but there was no smoke, no faults, no vibration, and with how it sounded I had a feeling it was an exhaust leak. Either way, I cut the testing session short and limped it back home, getting dirty looks the whole way for this car that sounds like...well, a straight piped V6. I figured one of the wastegates or something came loose, something that I touched yesterday, but when I parked it, it was pretty obvious where the issue was, and wasn't something I messed with.

Just one of the slip fit connections at the downpipe popped out. And pretty significantly. Happy it's a pretty easy fix, but surprised it blew it out that bad.

After that debacle I'm kind of glad I'm not dumping the exhaust out the bumpers. It would sound absolutely terrible. Not just volume wise, but tone. I guess that's what you get when there's a turbo four cylinder sticking out each side. uke:

 

Sounds good! If it were winning car shows it wouldn't be a dumpster fire

 

Glad it was something simple like a down pipe slip fit coupler. Before i welded on ball and socket junctions that would happen all the time. I hate the way open down pipe turbo mustangs sound. At least single turbo mustangs anyway. I dont see how guys run them on the street.. they sound like a tractor

 

Doin' more work. Actually making 15psi this time. Starting at a 15 mph roll and lazily shifting at 5000 RPM, but it pulls hard. I'm disappointed with how it doesn't show how hard it went or how fast it got going, but you can kind of see how it picks up the nose. Might look into alternate camera angles next time as well. The downside to mounting it outside is you don't get anything for sound. I'm open to suggestions.

 

Go Pro mount??

 

Yeah it's a suction cup go-pro mount on the windshield. I can mount it pretty much anywhere. I've tried it on a bunch of the exterior locations, but then you just get a ton of wind noise.

 

I've been out and about with it, and slacking with the pictures. So here's a handful of pictures from some of the car shows I've been to.

Car show where I got 6 points, placed 4th out of 4 in my class and didn't get an award where there were more awards than cars.

Bigger show where it actually got some attention

Actually looking decent:

Another show where the most attention it got was two guys in Roush shirts laughing at it.

And for shits and giggles, two dumpsterfire projects

Currently working on upgrading the charging system, going with a 2ga cable direct to the fuse box. Also noticed the back light on my gauge cluster is out. But with the SVT gauges, they don't use bulbs like the GTs. They use a unique glow backlight that uses AC, and requires an inverter. When that goes out, you lose the lighting. I verified it had power to it, but it wasn't working. Not a serviceable part of course. They have a great writeup on SVTP on how to replace it.

Now with the season winding down, it's time to start looking ahead. The girlfriend has been on be about how it reflects poorly on me, how it looks like ****, that I need to make it respectable. What do I spend the winter doing? Fixing all the little **** that's wrong with it? Better paint? Cleaning up things on it? Fixing the door handles? Making it look like less of a **** heap?

via Imgflip Meme Generator

Looking at the Bosch 210 lb/hr CNG injectors, and seeing what this external fuel pump can do. It sure would be cheaper and easier to run it on E85 than try pushing it on race gas. And we all know I don't give a **** about appearances if I can put up 4 digit power. Then that will require a new wheel/tire setup I'm looking into. :baller: