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SN95 5 lug conversion/dual piston caliper upgrade

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30K views 148 replies 25 participants last post by  ryanw  
#1 · (Edited)
Heres a pile of parts for my 5 lug conversion

1995 sn spindles
1999-2004 dual piston calipers
SS maximum motorsports brake lines
Not in pics.....front brake pads
Ranger axles 29 3/16" to 29 5/32" in length
Ranger drums
Rear-wheel bearings and seal
Front rotors
Ball joint spacers
1/2" hubcentric wheel spacers from maximum motorsports, for use with weld wheels in the front ( not in pictures)
2 1/2" long wheel studs for the front, because im using the wheel spacers ( not in pictures)

Here are some links to my other threads cuz i was having a few issues as youll see, when you get farther into this thread
http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forum...om/forums/5-0-mustangs/261102-5-lug-rotor-question-what-year-model-lincoln.html

http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forum...s/5-0-mustangs/261451-does-any-one-know-what-stock-length-front-wheel-stud.html

http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forum...261252-guys-help-me-out-here-what-am-i-doing-wrong-i-cant-get-rodlites-fit.html

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Ball joint spacers... you only need two, so ignore the others in the picture
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Stock set up.....the point of these two pics is just to show before and after pics

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After getting the stock crap off

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Sn spindle installed

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Sn spindle,rotor,caliper, pads,and brake lines installed

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I did want to point out that on the brake pads for the dual piston calipers.... there is an inner and outer pad. If you put the outter one up against the pistons... You Will Screw Up Your Pistons.

I know this because when i first bought my calipers off ebay, i found that each piston on both calipers had a dip in them and the edge was cracked. I had know idea why they were all damaged in the same spot, until i bought the new pads. And the rivets in the outter pad lined right up with the damaged area.

I wanted to make that clear, because the pads are shaped the same and i can see how some one could make that mistake

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#3 ·
And just so every one know. If you ever get your calipers mixed up and you cant tell the difference between the driver and passenger side.......... the bleeder screw all ways faces up, and will be at the highest point on the caliper.


So if you install your calipers and bleeder screw in pointing at the ground. You Have Them On The Wrong Side.....
 
#6 ·
I have not started the rears yet... thanks

What wheels are you putting on?
Weld rodlites
15x8 in the rear 5.5 back spacing
15x7 in the front 5.5 back spacing.

Ill be ordering the wheels next week some time
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#10 ·
The brake lines and rear wheel bearing/seals i got from latemodelresto, every thing else is from ebay. But the calipers i bought had messed up pistons so i turned them in as core charges at the local auto parts store and got some that were already rebuilt. I turns out that rebuilding the ebay ones would have cost almost as much as getting some that were already rebuild. So i figure, id save my self some work

The rotors were bought new from ebay and the braks pads were also from the local auto part store

Lol. I dont mean to get this going again.. but.....
Arent those rotors backwards! ?!? Haha
No....lol

But i wish i had just bought some OEM rotors. After i got them, i kept reading thread after thread about drilled rotors cracking... so ill just keep my fingers crossed
 
#12 ·
The passenger side took a long time cuz i didnt know what i was doing and i didnt have a big ****ing hammer. The driver side took about 1 1/2-2 hours
 
#13 ·
#19 ·
The research ive done.... says yes, if your plan is to keep the rear drum brakes. Then its best to keep the stock master cylinder, and brake booster.

If rear disk brakes are used then upgrading the master cylinder and booster, will need to be done.

Ill let you know if this is true once im back on the road..... lol
 
#23 ·
Hole ****..... this part was easy.....

Opened up the diff, then removed the 8mm bolt, slid out the pin. Pushed in both axles, pulled both C-clips, pulled both axles, removed both seals.

I need to get a bearing puller, tomorrow


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#26 ·
The boots are not mine.....lol

Im a metal head, but ill play a little country here and there.

What do you get when you play a country song backwards ? You get you house back, your wife back, your job back and your dog back...looool
 
#28 ·
Ok. "The boots are not mine" followed immediately by "I'll play a little country here and there". We have ourselves a hick in the closet boys! lmao!

Oh ****, I just forgot Ryan was gonna help me with my 5 lug. I should be nice. Hey dude, I think country is awesome, and so are cowboy boots. Wear them with pride! lol

Just playing with you dude. Looks awesome! Keep up the good work my friend!
 
#27 ·
Any one have a picture of where the fill hole or holes are on the diff housing ? I must be blind cuz i cant find it
 
#31 ·
Oh im not filling now, i just want to get the bolt loose. So is the hole on the drive shaft side of the housing ?
 
#32 ·
Okay i found it. Its on the drivers side, on the front side of housing, half way up. Damn thats going to be a bitch to fill up.
 
#35 ·
Aw.. thank you sir....that pump thing slip my mind. Im in nirvana, due to how well todays car project went, i really thought this was going to be a bad day cuz ive never opened up my diff. Ill keep my fingers croseed that the rest goes as well.
Ok, didn't I just say almost exactly the same thing? lol

See below, I posted this a bit ago:
Lol. Yep thats what you said.....lmao:)
 
#38 ·
Today i pulled the wheel bearing and installed new bearings and seals. Slid the axles in, installed the C clips, pin, and that 8mm bolt, rtv the diff cover after removing all the old rtv that was on the surface of the mounting face. Torqued all the bolts to around 25 ft lb.
All thats left is to have the drums machined, and install new brake shoes. Add gear oil and friction modifier. Torque down front caliper brake hoses and bleed the brake system.

Ill be ordering the wheels i think friday along with lug nuts. Needless to say my car will be up on jack stands for a bit longer.

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