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vibration after header install

13K views 22 replies 9 participants last post by  Ace417  
#1 ·
I got my jba long tube headers and o/r h pipe installed about 3 weeks ago and its been vibrating pretty bad inside the car. It feels like part of it from under the shifter and behind the sterio all in that area. And it only happens when I firts start it up and the rpm's start goin down. Has anyone had this happen to then? Or have an idea what it could be ? Thanks
 
#3 ·
My collectors are plenty clear of the floor before and after Prothane install. I did however have on primary tube on the driver's side vibrating against the bell housing right at the engine block. I just stuffed a large flat washer in between the tube and bell housing until I pulled the tranny again. That's when I took a grinder to the edge of the bell and engine block to skim a little material off for clearance.
 
#4 ·
So mabe new motor mounts? And I have another question. Y would it only vibrate for the first minutes then stop?
 
#6 ·
Right, the tubes expand after they are warmed up. You should get under the car or on a lift and do a close inspection of the exhaust system, not just the headers. Move along under the car taking the palm of your hand banging against the system...you'll find the problem even when the system is cold.
 
#7 ·
ok il probably be be doin that tonight then . so if i do find it vibrating off of something should i try and remove material off of were its hitting? or just try for new motor mounts and if so were should i buy them from
 
#8 ·
That depends on what you find. If it's something you can pry on to create a gap just go ahead and do it. I would get a look and go from there.
 
#9 ·
any progress?

My MAC headers rubbed against my starter, i had to grind some metal off the starter housing. it didnt cause vibration particularly, just more of a vibration
 
#12 · (Edited)
my MACs cleared the starter pretty well. my problem was the frame on the passenger side. turned out that when i dropped my motor back onto the mounts, it was misaligned slightly to the pass. side.

OP, i would first check to make sure your motor is lined up straight. then i would put the car on a lift and go over those headers with a fine tooth comb. make sure there's at least a 1/4" clearance along all the runners. in my experience, JBAs are notorious for rubbing the steering linkage. maybe whoever did your headers laid the motor down a lil to the pass. side to avoid this. if so, either remove your steering linkange and grind a lil off where it rubs, or dent the exhaust runner that hits the linkage.

(oh, and keep in mind that JBA will void your warranty on those headers if you dent them. but its funny because they recommend denting them to clear the steering linkage. that right there says something about that company)
 
#11 ·
Check the flimsy little heat shields by the down pipes.
 
#13 ·
Ok so I kept looking starting up the car and getting under there and I couldn't find were it was vibrating at I kept looking for about 2 hours and nothing. But is there a certain way to check if the motor is lined up straight? Or is there a possible way he could of broke one of the motor mounts when reinstalled?
 
#14 ·
O and I also talked to a ford teck and he was kind of an ***hole. He told me I was the kinda customer who complained about little things after putting aftermarket parts on my car. I'm not tryin to complain I just don't want my car vibrating after an install cuz its really annoying and loud.
 
#15 ·
what a dick. and i hate techs that complain about customers complaining. rubbing headers is not just a "little thing" to complain about. eventually that rub and vibration could put a hole in that header.

i'd suggest just taking it to a ford tech that's actually on the clock. pay him to fix it, not to talk ****.
 
#16 ·
the advice to clearance the steering shaft it it is rubbing is BAD ADVICE, and I highly advise you NOT to take it.

I thought of another thing. The trans seperstor plate TSB vibtrates mostly when cold. It'd be a hell of a coincidence, but doesn't hurt to check. Start it up and when the rattling starts, firmly press the plate towards the trans and if the rattling stops you found your problem.
 
#17 ·
the advice to clearance the steering shaft it it is rubbing is BAD ADVICE, and I highly advise you NOT to take it.
ya lol. idk even know why i brought it up. my buddy did it but he's not the sharpest tool in the shed. to give you an idea this guy bought a v6 billet overlay for his bullitt. there's a cutout for the pony that he doesn't have lol.

but ya, its funny that it only does it on start up, but that makes sense with it possibly not clearing the starter. and the trans seperator plate cold start up rattle is an interesting thought.

OP, i don't know if you have access to a lift, but you really need one when dealing with exhaust problems. it'll make **** 100 times easier.
 
#18 ·
Ok so I'll be checking for the trans separator hopefully when I get off of work 2day. But if I can't find it I'm probably gunna take it to a different shop and hopefully the'll finf the problem. I'll tell u guys how it goes
 
#19 ·
so iv been driving the car all this week and found it was hitting against the under body so i shaved a little off and took care of the problem. yea im pretty happy now lol but thanks alot guys ur info really helped alot
 
#20 ·
mine does this. i just havent had the time to get under the car at all :(
 
#21 ·
were are your headers vibrating at? Do u have jba LT's?
 
#22 ·
i have macs. its somewhere up front from what i can tell from hearing inside. maybe ill get the pig up on stands today and check..
 
#23 ·
I think i may have found the issue! This clamp, where the prochamber meets the extender legs, is VERY close to the rest of the car.
Image


Im unsure of how i should go about this. I was ****ing with it yesterday and I could either:
1. leave it so that the giant square part is facing down (which seems like it would be in the way.
2. twist it 180. Ive done this, but its a tad loose as getting a wrench in there is a PITA.

I was going to just leave it as is and swap the bolt sides, but it looked like that wouldnt work too well.

Would it be easiest just to take the clamp off and turn it around?