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Bullitt 5381 build

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#121 ·
If the springs are giving you 125 lbs on the seat then even at 18 lbs of boost I wouldn't think you would be getting valve float at 6000 RPM, but if other turbo guys differ on that opinion please chime in.

To check a spring's seat pressure you need to not only take it out but once its out also carefully measure its installed height.

You can do this on 2v heads using a digital dial caliper following the steps below.

First you need to re-zero the dial caliper using the thickness of the valve spring retainer, just close the caliper on the outer edge of the retainer and then press the Zero button.

Then with the spring out put the retainer and locks back on the valve end and pull up firmly on it to seat the retainer and locks.

While pulling the retainer up and keeping it level with one hand use the other hand and the far depth measuring end of the digital caliper to measure the distance from the top of the retainer down to the surface the spring sits on, typically a shim but in some installations a spring cup. Make sure the end of the caliper is pushing the shim or spring cup down so its fully seated on the head.

The reading on the caliper, which has been compensated for the retainer thickness by the previous zeroing step, is then that spring's installed height.

I'll usually make this measurement 3 times to make sure I'm getting consistent measurements.

So Dassar, you need to get your spring measured at that installed height to find out how much seat pressure you have.

If you have time to wait for the shipping turnaround you can send your springs to me and I'm measure them on my PT-200, its a highly accurate PC based valve spring measuring tool, I can then send you a printout of what your spring pressures are at your current installed heights and a second printout showing what installed heights you need to use to get them at 125 lbs.

I'll extend this free spring measuring to other any MM forum members that need it, just send me a PM about it.
 
#122 ·
Pull the line from the compressor and put air to it. Listen for leaks at the wastegate.
You shouldnt hear any air. Once one of my tial 38mm gates had a torn diaphragm.
On the dyno my boost would spike and then settle down. So, it doesnt take much to check it to rule out a leak. I pull my vacuum lines one at a time and put air to them to check for leaks.

I just think one 38mm gate puts a lot more pressure on the exhaust valves and requires more seat pressure. I run a 38mm gate on both banks.

I put the piston to tdc on the cylinder I want to remove a spring from.
The piston will hold the valve up.


The TF 125lb springs have a installed height of 1.60". It should be 125lbs compressed down to 1.60". Max cam lift is .580 and I believe your cams have .545 lift. That only leaves you room for a .030 shim.

Were you spraying meth while on the dyno?
 
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Discussion starter · #123 ·
Thanks Cal boy, if I end up getting one out before I leave again I may take you up on that.

Y2k, yes I was spraying meth on the dyno.

---------- Post added at 11:37 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:35 AM ----------

And you are correct about .545 being my cams max lift
 
#124 ·
Your tuner should be throwing a lot more timing at it. TF heads need more timing than PI heads. Are you using 100% meth as that is what I used with PI heads. I had 19* of timing above 6000rpm.
 
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Discussion starter · #125 ·
y2k02 said:
Your tuner should be throwing a lot more timing at it. TF heads need more timing than PI heads. Are you using 100% meth as that is what I used with PI heads. I had 19* of timing above 6000rpm.
Click to expand...
Damn really? I'm using 50/50, I think he was getting scared to hurt it and of course I want it semi "safe" as well so I didn't push him to add more than 14*, especially because I need to figure out why it's falling off up top.
 
#126 ·
Should run 100% meth.
For sure should check that seat pressure.
I sure the car is still a blast to drive.
Thought I remembered that the late Nick of mhs didnt really like the TF valve springs.
 
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Discussion starter · #127 ·
y2k02 said:
Should run 100% meth.
For sure should check that seat pressure.
I sure the car is still a blast to drive.
Thought I remembered that the late Nick of mhs didnt really like the TF valve springs.
Click to expand...
100% so I can add more timing?

---------- Post added at 01:16 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:15 PM ----------

And yes it's fun to drive, but I also want it to be right, ya know
 
#128 ·
100% is just better. You can run full timing without worrying about anything.
I know what you mean about it being right. I was at that same place back in 06. That was the time guys and or tuners had figured out that you need really strong exhaust valve springs.
 
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Discussion starter · #129 ·
Just got back in town a week or so ago, haven't pulled a valve spring yet. Might wait till I can pull the motor as it looks like a pita while installed.

I did, however do some work. I got my MSD 2 step installed. I hooked it up to the clutch switch, with a toggle switch in between.



Also swapped to Maximum motorsports rear SS brake lines so I could fit my new weld RTS 15s. I was just grinding down the banjo bolt, but it required more grinding than I wanted and I wasn't sure I'd be able to remove the bolt if needed.





Next I finally routed my exhaust out the front bumper. It has been dumping under the car for the last few months and I was very displeased with how dirty the underside was getting. Taking the plunge to drill a 3.5 hole in my front bumper wasn't easy... but it turned out good.





With my street setup




with new, drag wheels/tires



I got a set of ID1000's and some MS109 race fuel on its way, so hopefully see what she can do on some race fuel soon....
 
#130 ·
Well ****... not even a video of it running.
Car with the race wheels looks sweet.
 
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Discussion starter · #131 ·
y2k02 said:
Well ****... not even a video of it running.
Car with the race wheels looks sweet.
Click to expand...
Thanks man! Maybe I'll get a video soon, but I know you've heard a 2v idle on mmr stage 3 cams before. Lol

Picked up a v6 bumper I had in paint today. Since I don't have normal exhaust anymore the gt bumper looks stupid. Usps tried to deliver my id1000s but I wasn't home to sign... damnit...
 
Discussion starter · #132 ·
Got my bumper installed today... Looks alot better than the GT one with no exhaust....



Driveshaft loop installed...




Received my ARP wheel studs and ID1000s today, waiting on a base tune from my tuner to install the injectors...

I've been thinking about my shopping list for winter mods, and I'm wondering when the Bullitt intake mani becomes a hindrance? At what point should I look into a sheet metal intake or something?
 
Discussion starter · #134 ·
Didn't get much done this weekend other than install my ARP wheel studs which were kind of a pain because of the ABS ring. Looks kinda dumb with my street wheels on... a necessary evil I suppose.





My torque box reinforcements should be here this week....
 
#135 ·
I installed those as well, But i cut them off so they didnt stick out like that....
 
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Discussion starter · #138 · (Edited)
Well I went to the track yesterday. Only got 2 passes but best was 11.0 at 128. When loading the car I noticed trans fluid all over under the car. I got home and pulled the shifter.



Can't really tell where it's coming from. Need to drive around with the cover off and see what's going on
 
#139 ·
What were the 1/8 numbers. Almost a 10 on your first outing is pretty good for a manual.
 
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Dassar
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