Whats it gonna go at? Im at 400 406 at 12psi. Going to have the ais meth kit tuned in friday. Should i be worried about it throwing a rod?
Most power on stock bottom end?
tmpowdercoating
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Even at 8 qts that is not a problem with the modular motors. The crank is well out of the oil. Did u read this? > "When at idle, you're 2 qts low"
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21,895 Posts
I'm interested to see what datum plane was used and how this was determined though. After all, 2qts is a fairly significant difference, that's 33% more than recommended capacity. I also didn't see anything mentioned regarding engine angularity. You'd have to account for margin for power angle as well as angles in operation. Unless your car stays on level ground all the time and seldom accelerates/decelerates, there has to be significant margin, or baffling.
Sorry for the rant, I've had my hands in an issue similar to this with one of the platforms at work.
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Don't be sorry for a good discussion. There are some oil pan pics floating around here somewhere I'll see if i can post. On thing to keep in mind is the crank journals do not hang down into the pan like on a 5.0 and other designs.
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2,335 Posts
Look here> Oil pan capacity test pics - SVTPerformance
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11,471 Posts
i posted that same link on here last year cause people with windsor motors were convinced to only use 5 qts cause that is what the owners manual says. i would still stay around 7 quarts though since hard launches will put oil pretty high up on the back of your crank depending how high you pull your tires.
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7,479 Posts
I have been running seven quarts of oil in my car since the day I bought it and joined this forum. So far I haven't noticed any negative effects of running the extra amount.
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I run 7qts in mine and it's at max on the dipstick.
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13,570 Posts
I have a Windsor motor. I read all the posts and I became convinced that more oil is needed if you run hard. Not needed if you don't. I run 6 quarts.
Our motors do not flow well back to the oil pan. That is well known. But 7 quarts. Isn't the crank hitting the oil at that level?
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3,725 Posts
I have not researched this with a mod motor because I did not think it was an issue till now.
I believe adding more oil to an engine is a crutch and can lead to windage and frothing issues. i used to have a big problem with my 514 @8000rpm pumping all the oil up top and starving the mains because of inadequate drain back. adding oil created issues and loss of power. I ended up going to a standard flow pump and restricted pushrods and had no more issues.
i am wondering if there is a way to restrict flow up top and also help drain back? not a fan of bandaids
I believe adding more oil to an engine is a crutch and can lead to windage and frothing issues. i used to have a big problem with my 514 @8000rpm pumping all the oil up top and starving the mains because of inadequate drain back. adding oil created issues and loss of power. I ended up going to a standard flow pump and restricted pushrods and had no more issues.
i am wondering if there is a way to restrict flow up top and also help drain back? not a fan of bandaids
My buddy thinks I'm crazy because I only torque my plugs to 156 inlbs and I run 7qts of oil. He has a rude awakening when he trys to change his plugs (he tightened them like an iron head motor - Tight as he could) Its a windsor motor (2000) lol.
He runs 20/50 oil and only 5 qt. He thinks its better for the motor because its thicker. Mine just hit 140k miles today. After 20 bottles or so of nitrous on a 125 kit it now has 20k miles on 10lbs of boost. It makes some funny noises and sounds a little crappy at times due to worn lifters and timing chain noise a believe but it still puts down 420rwhp and gets 23-24mpg on the highway lol. I would change the lifters and timing chain guides but this motor comes on next month. Its been so good to me I'm going to purchase the cheapo forged I beams everyone runs, new bearings and re ring it just to put it in the corner on stand by.
He runs 20/50 oil and only 5 qt. He thinks its better for the motor because its thicker. Mine just hit 140k miles today. After 20 bottles or so of nitrous on a 125 kit it now has 20k miles on 10lbs of boost. It makes some funny noises and sounds a little crappy at times due to worn lifters and timing chain noise a believe but it still puts down 420rwhp and gets 23-24mpg on the highway lol. I would change the lifters and timing chain guides but this motor comes on next month. Its been so good to me I'm going to purchase the cheapo forged I beams everyone runs, new bearings and re ring it just to put it in the corner on stand by.
I wouldnt call it a bandaid. This is completely different from you BBF. I agree i would never do this on my 411W in my 67 but with the 4.6 the crank isnt even in the oil bath. You dont create windage problems. Have you ever looked at a 4.6 oil pan? Its nothing like your standard pushrod oil pan... I would NOT want to restrict oil to the top end on an overhead cam motor. Improving drainback might be a good idea but why bother with any of it when you can just run more capacity. Theres alot of motors out there with 150k miles on boost or nitrous that have lived just fine with the extra oil
To each their own. As long as the pump isnt cavitating and the oil isnt foaming I would rather a little too much than a little not enough! On a side note that is another reason i like self contained superchargers. I hate taping the oil line. Its just another part of the system to have to consider. I like the dipstick on the blower!
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13,580 Posts
Tapping the oil line ensures a fresh supply of oil in the Supercharger. Also If your runing an oil cooler then the oil being fed to the Blower is much cooler then oil that constantly sits in the blower from a self contained unit. Tapping the pan isnt as hard as everyone makes it sound I took my pan off and welded my fitting in.
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completely agree and that oil is being cycled through the cars oil filter also.
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