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Plans tonight got cancelled, so I got the cam out the rest of the way. I checked my 4.2 cam and it does fit through all the bearings, so shouldn't be any issue. Need to have it cleaned up just a bit and I have to get some pushrods from my machine shop for another car I'm working on so will have them check it over to make sure its good to use.

All the valve train out:
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Empty block:
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how do you like the vented catch can? I find with mine I get some oil fumes.
 
got the old car out for probably the last weekend of the year this season.
Found out it runs pretty damn even with a stock coyote lol

Car also seems to be pushing oil out of the exhaust when I get full boost. Not sure if I just need a new pcv, a better catch can, or my motor hates me. Hopefully not the latter. Car still runs great though lol
Could be a turbo seal? Which could also be a symptom of high crankcase pressure.
 
got the old car out for probably the last weekend of the year this season.
Found out it runs pretty damn even with a stock coyote lol

Car also seems to be pushing oil out of the exhaust when I get full boost. Not sure if I just need a new pcv, a better catch can, or my motor hates me. Hopefully not the latter. Car still runs great though lol
I'm with snake that it probably is something on the turbo. Very Unlikely you are getting oil from somewhere else if its going through the exhaust all the time, like a leaking valve seal may cause.

how do you like the vented catch can? I find with mine I get some oil fumes.
It works ok. When its cold out and I have been driving for a bit then I will get some fumes coming out from under the hood at a stop lol. Other then that its not really bad, honestly, I catch more water with it then anything due to Ohio being so damn humid. I have been thinking of changing it from atmosphere vent to running a fitting on the exhaust at a 45* against the flow on the dump pipe so that it will cause the exhaust to pull vacuum on the pipe, haven't gotten around to doing it though.
 
I'm hoping tomorrow i'll get the engine in the car, work has been working me to much. 60-70 hours a week. Gotta do the bearings, drop the trans, then pull the old engine out.
 
Installed a new TPS sensor because my car was acting weird and threw a CEL. Also cleared the code,hopefully that fixes the problem. I did lubricate my ball joints too.I was reverse turning and heard this god awfull noise. I looked it up on youtube and seen this guy with a mustang with the same exact problem. Guess I'll see if it that works too.
 
So I figured out that I pulled the power for my AEM UEGO from what appears to be the dimmer wire for the radio. The damn thing turns off when I turn on the lights :facepalm::screwy:

On the bright side, I actually got to drive project Super Stang last night! No WOT yet though being that I couldn't get a good driving log with the wideband at night since I pulled power from the wrong effin' place :bash:

Hopefully in the next couple of days I will have the time to move to a steady key on power source lol, and then it'll be a good log for Ortiz and then on to some WOT logging.
 
Well I tried to datalog but I think something wrong with the MAF read out.


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Ya something is definitley wrong there. Also, I would suggest getting rid of the long term trims (won't really help you much as they are essentially the short term over a long time. The STFT are what you want to see). Also, add load, vehicle speed, spark, Throttle position absolute and Throttle position relative to close, IAC duty cycle, returnless fuel pump duty cycle if you are returnless, Inlet air temp, Injector pulsewidth. These are the main things we would need to see in order to try to help with something wrong in the tune.

Do you have the PRP software or are you having someone else tune it?
 
Got my wideband power issue sorted out last night, tonight I'll be able to get a good driving log file done, and then hopefully I will be able to get some WOT pulls done and be able to really feel what this M90 has in it!
 
Ya something is definitley wrong there. Also, I would suggest getting rid of the long term trims (won't really help you much as they are essentially the short term over a long time. The STFT are what you want to see). Also, add load, vehicle speed, spark, Throttle position absolute and Throttle position relative to close, IAC duty cycle, returnless fuel pump duty cycle if you are returnless, Inlet air temp, Injector pulsewidth. These are the main things we would need to see in order to try to help with something wrong in the tune.

Do you have the PRP software or are you having someone else tune it?
Thanks Toph6888 I'm trying to get a good datalog to send to the tuner. I need to check all my wires to make sure everything is good.
 
Got the mustang out on the road tonight. went slow at first checking things (SCT livelink datalogging is just the worst, everytime I try to do a new datalog it freezes the computer and I have to spend 5-10 minutes getting everything hooked back up) and then made a couple small pulls. The car seemed to do really well minus the powersteering pump being beyond angry, time for a replacement.

Later my friend came over who helped me put the time lapse together so we went back out again to get a 3rd gear pull. Its not even funny how much better it drives right now even with the tune being slightly off but still safe. AFR's are really rich still at WOT, can prob lean it out to around 11.3-11.5, right now it hovers between 10.8 and 11.0. Spark is around 18*.

Old custom ground cam is in red, stock cam in blue. IAT's for red were 72*F , IAT's for blue were 50*F measured at the maf at peak rpm. Other main difference included changing the intercooler from a same in/out to an opposite side inlet/outlet which flows better. Runs were made on the same stretch of road, with the same two in the car with the same driver. These numbers aren't meant to be actual dyno numbers, but a fair representation of the change in hp/tq between the two setups. 3rd gear pull, assuming 3550 car weight and 450 passenger weight for both occupants.

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Boost comes on so much harder at low rpms, much better for what I was trying to get to. Will try to get the tune ironed out this weekend as when I initially come off the throttle the afr's go pretty lean with no load (so no concern) but still would like to get it set up to where between shifts it sees at most 14.5-15afr instead of 18. Also want to get the afr at WOT back up to around 11.2-11.5 and dial in teh spark timing a bit more in the 4000-4500rpm range where I start to really loose torque.
 
Got the motor mounts bolted down, got the drive shaft back in, put fluid in the transmission, put the inside back together. The only thing left to do to the car is drain the tank and put new gas into it.
 
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